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Little Girl Dresses from Hobby Lobby Fabric

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Even though Hobby Lobby is about 20 mins from me, I rarely go to the store. Working in the middle of the Garment District in NYC and online pattern sales allow me to purchase what I need without going to the brick 'n mortar stores.   

Last weekend I was out with my Mom, Daughter and the grandbabies for some birthday/late Mother's Day shopping and we found ourselves on that side of town. So we made a trip to the store. Of course I made a beeline to the fabric section, while everyone else checked out the other merchandise. And of course I found fabric to buy...



I also found elasticized yardage that I thought would make excellent dresses for the girls in pink and blue cotton with embroidered edges. 


Because Saturday was "Picture Day" for all of my Sewcation makes, I sewed the dresses up so the girls could have their pictures taken too.

The Supply List ~
1. One yard of the elasticized cotton embroidered lawn
2. Floral Organza Trim appliques purchased from the notions stash by way of Pacific Trimmings
3. 1 - 1" gold snap from M&J Trims

Construction ~
A simple seam up the back finished the body of the dress. I pinned the fabric onto the girls with the wrong side out. Then stitched it closed. I had to go in again and take deeper seams on both girls to make sure it was tight in the bodice.

With the leftover fabric, I cut straps for both girls.  I had enough to make Samantha single straps that met near the center back. For her straps, I folded the edges over and stitched down, then stitched them to the dress front and back.


For Aleena I had to make a halter strap with a snap closure because the remaining fabric wasn't long enough to make straps for her.



To finish the strap on Aleena's dress, I didn't want to fold over the edges and lose length, so I stitched a piece of white organza ribbon onto the edge to finish and strengthen the fabric for the snap. The snap was then stitched onto the straps. The weight of the snap actually worked as a stabilizer and helped hold the dress onto Aleena better.

The organza floral ribbon applique was stitched to the center of each dress to give them a little something extra and each dress was done since I didn't need to hem them.

Pictures of the girls in the dresses ~


Aleena's Pink Dress ~




Samantha's Dress ~




...and the thrill was gone...


Conclusion ~
I bought 10 yards of fabric (5 pieces) from Hobby Lobby because most of the things I liked were 50% off. At least these 2 pieces are no longer on my cutting table but headed home with the girls. 

Hopefully you can see from the pics that they really liked their dresses! Since it will be hot this week (temps in the 80s), these dresses will get worn to school. They were happy. My daughter was happy and so was I!

p.s. ~ 
Both girls and their little brother were here, so of course he had to get in on the picture taking!



...as always more later!





Butterick 6333 - A Sewing Fail

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Before I discuss this sewing fail, let me announce the winner of Barbara's book, 
"SEW The Garment-Making Book of Knowledge: Real-Life Lessons from a Serial Sewist."  I used the Random Generator entering 119 entries...


...and the winner is:

TONI WADE!

Please forward your email address to me (my email addy is cnorman underscore 98 at yahoo dot com) BY THURSDAY, JUNE 14th and I will forward it to Barbara who will mail you the book! Congratulations!


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 

After making shirts during the first quarter of the year, I really want to keep using those sewing skills.  I have loads of shirtdress patterns in my pattern stash and after going through them I chose Butterick 6333 as one of my Sewcation makes.


Honestly, after making this dress I've decided that I don't like waisted shirtdresses. I have my own personal issues with my protruding backside and these type of shirtdresses just emphasize it and my abundant abdomen. So the sewing fail is due to style and not the pattern or fabric choice!


However, since I'm in a new phase of my life, I wanted to add a straight and a full skirted shirtdress to my wardrobe.  I thought if I could succeed in getting a full skirted version to work, it would allow me to play with fabrics, specifically border print fabrics that require a seam.


I like my Lenox version by Cashmerette Patterns and it is a full skirt shirtdress. However, I wanted to try the typical buttoned up neckline of a more traditional shirtdress without the waistband. 

Well after sewing this one up, I won't be making more of these AT ALLThis dress has confirmed my dislike of waisted dresses. I was so disappointed in this dress that I took an hour and found almost all of the patterns I'd purchased with that type of waistline and put them in the pile of patterns I'm donating to the Baltimore DeStash.

When I sewed for my corporate life, I would've never sewn this type of dress. I don't know why I thought by changing jobs this style would work now, cause it doesn't. I'm sure some of you will be tempted to write about how great it looks...and it did photograph well. I'm just not comfortable in the dress because it emphasizes my backside AND that's what's most important. So please don't tell me to keep or make it up in another fabric because I'm so over this pattern/style.

Also I wanted to show that not everything I make works and to tell you that this dress almost blew up my sewcation.  It was my second make and neither this nor the first one blew me away...so I started to doubt myself. Yeah it got that serious up in here. *LOL* But it was the beginning of my sewcation and I couldn't walk away from my sewing machine...if I did I might as well go back to work...so I sucked it up and kept sewing.

After making a few more pieces and getting to a sewing zen state, I came up with an idea on how to repurpose this dress. Hopefully, before the summer is over, I will have repurposed it and will share that here too.

One administrative note ~
For those who have had issues with leaving comments lately the note below was on top of my dashboard last weekend, "Blogger no longer supports OpenID. Existing OpenID comments and your OpenID settings may have changed." So if that's how you left comments, I'm sorry you will be unable to do so now. I have no control over this since I use blogger as my blogging platform and they are making the change.

Next up on the blog is my version of the Montrose Top.

...as always more later!




My Cashmerette Montrose Top

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Originally I made this top to go with the shorter Simplicity wrap skirt which is coming to the blog soon.  After completing the top and trying it on with the skirt, I just looked like a big ole box.  Not the look I was going for.  When I put it on with a pair of jeans and a camisole it worked. The problem is that I don't wear jeans in the summer...AT...ALL!


Supply Info ~
2 yards of lace embroidered fabric from Metro Textiles purchased in 2014
1/4 yard of lace from the collection
1/4" purchased bias binding
1/8" white ribbon



Construction Info ~
For this Montrose top, I cut a size 24 right out of the envelope. I made two changes to the pattern.  One - I shortened the top at the lengthen/shorten lines. It's because I want it to hit the top of my skirt(s).  The second change was to the sleeves. I no longer just have fat biceps, I have fat upper arms.  So I used the wide bicep sleeve and instead of cutting it as the pattern suggests, I straightened the sleeve down to the elbow length line on both sides.

(Used the dark background to adequately showcase the fabric)

I used a size 70 needle to sew this top. The straight stitch foot and plate on my sewing machine and a very small stitch so that I was laying more thread in the seamlines.  This was necessary due to all of the lace in the fabric.



Since the fabric was so delicate and sheer, I added 1/8" ribbon trim to some of the openings. It just struck me that the fabric was sheerer than I wanted it to be.  Of course I didn't have any ribbon trim on hand so I had to make a Michaels run to purchase some. BTW I HATE that! LOL! I'm pretty anal about having all of my supplies together before starting a project.

Adding the ribbon took time because I had to thread it through all the openings and that got boring quickly...so I added days to the construction of this essentially very easy to sew top. While the top pattern comes with a binding pattern piece, I used purchased double fold bias tape that was 1/4" wide. As an aside, this is from the collection and has a date of 1986 on it. Dayum that's old!

The sleeves were cut from a separate piece of lace from the collection that I honestly have no idea where it's from since I've cut on it before. It will go back on the shelves to wait it's turn to be an accent on a future garment since there is about a yard and a half left.

BTW, I didn't use the back loop and button closing. Gaylen made a version of this and when we were talking about it, she said she could put hers on without it...so I left it off too. She was right...my neckline ended up being very deep and the top slips on and off easily.

The final aspect of the project was to add the lace that bound the fabric to the hem of the top. Again a fiddly piece that took time but adds so much to the top. I think the finished project was worth all of the extra effort though.

A few pics ~


Wearing the top with a linen skirt that I made 
almost two decades ago!




Conclusion ~
I liked this top especially after I paired it with the right bottom. I will be adding more of these to my wardrobe because as usual Cashmerette Patterns fit all of my wardrobe needs.

Up next on the blog will be the Simplicity Wrap Skirts.

...as always more later!






Simplicity 8612 Wrap Skirt & A TNT Shirt

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When I was at Sew Camp LaQuana was making this Simplicity wrap skirt and I was intrigued. After she posted it to her blog, I was even more intrigued. See I'm trying to be open to new styles I wouldn't typically wear now that my lifestyle has changed.


So when I told Gaylen I was thinking about the pattern she picked it up for me from the craft store when they were having a sale on Simplicity patterns. 


But Imma be honest - I'm not the sewist that gets excited about a new pattern. Y'all know I love me a TNT...however, I own so many patterns and every now and then desire a new pattern so I need to get over it. Cause this was supposed to be a simple sew...

Supply List ~
* A midweight patterned denim from Fabric Mart purchased during my December 2016 trip there - as an aside I've used four pieces from that trip!
* Fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply

Pattern Alterations ~
I didn't make any alterations.  I made a straight 26 out of the envelope.

Construction ~  
I made the longer version of this skirt first and I've probably used a heavier weight denim than recommended on the pattern envelope. I really liked the pattern on the denim and I think it turned out okay. 

So a few things:
1. I hated the way the ties are assembled.  They are really long and hard to turn. No matter what trick I tried I had to suck it up and pull them through. Thank goodness I was binge watching Scandal...

2. I don't know if it's me or my body but the overlap didn't work completely. It separates underneath when I sit down.  Not enough to make my bare legs show but enough that it annoyed me. It doesn't separate or open when I walk probably because I made the longer version first.

3. So for the shorter version, I made a right and left overlap with the right one being bigger so it would cover all of me when I sit.

4. The buttonhole is definitely tricky if you don't think it through. Since my machine makes automatic buttonholes, I chose a button that was the size of the end of the tie. I used it in the buttonhole foot to make a buttonhole and it worked perfectly.

5. Also I didn't use the markings on the pattern piece to determine where to put the buttonhole opening. I put the skirt on my body and chose a point. I also topstitched the waistband and the ties.

6. For the waistline, I used the longest pattern piece for waistband available. I knew it was too long but it was easier to cut off the unused portion than have to worry about fitting the skirt. This is cheating I know but hey it works so I went with it.

7. When wearing this I've tied the ties really tightly and added a safety pin to the back to hold the ties together.  I wanted to insure that the two pieces don't separate and provides some piece of mind to me.

A few pictures ~





My TNT Shirt ~
A. The shirt is from my TNT pattern and a navy handkerchief linen from the collection by way of Fabric Mart. 


B. It uses most of the same construction techniques as in this shirt, however, I didn't burrito method the yoke. 

C. I stitched the yoke to the back seam and pressed the shoulder seam allowance flat.  Then topstitched it down on the shoulder seams. 

D. The other thing to note is that for the collar stand I doubled the navy blue handkerchief linen on one side because the inside piece of fabric I chose was a cotton sateen floral print. The print was showing through on just one piece of the linen.

E. Because I doubled the fabric, I did not add interfacing. The cotton sateen plus the doubled fabric give the undercollar enough stability.

The buttons and bias binding are from Pacific Trimmings. I made a special trip to pick up some shirt buttons because they have them in every color imaginable. It was important that the buttons matched the fabric so that it will be wearable with other things in my wardrobe including this skirt.


Conclusion ~
I really like this skirt and the construction.  There is a simplier version of this pattern on the Butterick website. However, I believe the addition of the side panels on this pattern makes it a superior choice. 

I haven't made alot of skirts for spring/summer in the last couple of years. I've concentrated on casual dresses for work but now that I have a good basic wardrobe, I want to add in some other pieces.

This outfit is the first one in my spring/summer sewing series - say that three times fast! I've made a list and it includes a few indie patterns, some Big4 and a couple of repeats from last year. I'm pretty excited about the list of things I want to create this spring/summer.  I completed this skirt and shirt prior to my sewcation. However, since I just wanted to sew during my sewcation, this is the first chance I've had to take pictures of all my recent makes. 

The short version of this skirt is up next on the blog.

...as always more later!








Simplicity 8612 Wrap Skirt - Shorter Length

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I knew when I made the first S8612 wrap skirt in the longer length that I would be making the shorter version too. So this version is made exactly as the first one except for one change I made to the pattern. I made separate pattern pieces for the right and left fronts.   

(wearing my birthday present necklace - thanks Marce!)

The right front is a size 34 and the left is a size 26. I wanted the underlap to cover my entire body when I sat down. It spreads a little too much on the longer version. But since the longer version has extra fabric it covers me when I sit down.

For this one, the length is just under my knees. I added one inch to the hemline of the pattern to lengthen it. I also made the ties differently than the pattern instructions. 


As I stated in the last post, the ties were a b*tch to turn. So for these ties, I pressed the seam allowance flat. For the end of the tie, I pressed it down in both directions, then cut diagonally across to remove the excess fabric, so the tie end would lay flat. Besides the length it's the only change I made. Then I stitched the tie flat all the way around before following the pattern instructions to attach it to the skirt.

The fabric for this make is a denim looking fabric I purchased from Fabric Mart's brick and mortar store during Sew Camp in March 2017. As an aside this is the third piece I've used from that purchase.

A Few Pics ~





Conclusion ~
Originally I was going to wear this with the Montrose Top but the two pieces just didn't work well together. So I went with plan B.  I wore it my white TNT sleeveless shirt.  I know it's basically the same look as the longer skirt but hey if it ain't broke why fix it. 

This is my favorite of the two skirts probably because I used a lighter weight fabric and the shorter length. I also like the way it wraps better.

I won't be using this pattern again this season.  Too many other things to sew and fabric to use.

...as always more later!

  

The Embellished Shirtdress Series - Printed Linen Vogue 2090

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Halfway through my Sewcation I got overwhelmed.  The Sewcation started with two garments that were less than thrilling and nothing was working the way I planned. When Butterick 6333 was a sewing fail it kinda blew up my sewcation plan. I had to figure out what to do next...so I literally slept most of Wednesday. It didn't hurt that I had to deal with a plumbing problem that will require redoing my second bathroom faster than I wanted to...yeah, glad I have fabric to sew from in the meantime!


I've found when I'm having sewing challenges, pivot towards a TNT pattern. It helps me move past the blockage because it's easy sewing (all those fit issues have been worked out) and it allows me to just dream and sew.  Since Vogue 2090 was out, I decided to move in that direction.

After I decided what pattern to use, the hunt was on for fabric...and when I say hunt I mean hunt. Since I was operating off plan, I had to go through the fabric shelves to find new pieces. I knew I wanted linen and a floral. After going through a few shelves of printed fabrics, I decided on this blue/purple floral.



Supply List ~ 
The linen was purchased last summer during one of Fabric Mart's end of summer sales. I added a large white rick rack from the notions stash. I've had it so long I have no idea where I purchased it. The white mother of pearl buttons are also from the button stash. The interfacing is the last of the Fashion Supply Interfacing stash.

Since this is a TNT sew there are no pattern alterations or new construction information. I added the white rick rack on the collar and on the hem of the sleeve for embellishment.

A few pictures ~





Conclusion ~
This is just the first of the shirtdresses that I made using this pattern. I wanted to add a bunch of these to my wardrobe this summer because they are loose-fitting and perfect for the hot, humid days that are to come. This pattern along with M7470 will fulfill my shirtdress needs.  

I'm calling this "The Embellished Shirtdress" series.  Each dress has a different type of trim or embroidery on it and why I've named it The Embellished Shirtdress Series.

Next up is a denim version of Vogue 2090.

...as always more later!




The Embellished Shirtdress - A Denim Vogue 2090

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I chose to make this pattern again in denim during my Sewcation because I really want to own as many denim dresses as I can.  They are easy to wear, fit in with my work environment and my lifestyle.  Dressing them up or down, wearing them out with friends or to work, makes them a very desirable garment for me.


This version is made from a midweight denim that works for cooler spring days and will transition from summer to fall days. I will probably only get one or two wears out of it before it gets really hot here but I'm good with that. 

Supply List ~
Denim is from Stylemaker Fabrics and is the last of the 10 yards I purchased from them.
Navy/White Gingham scraps from Fabric Mart
5/8" Goldish Buttons from Pacific Trimmings
Jeans Gold Gutterman Thread for topstitching

Construction ~
The embellishment for this dress is the topstitching done in the jeans gold thread. All of the seams are topstitched - some with a double twin needle and some seams like the collar and the front button bands are sewn with single seams of topstitching.

I also added a small pocket on the front of the dress which is different from the original pattern which has faux pocket flaps. I probably would have used the pocket flap but I couldn't find the pattern piece so I had to make my own pocket piece.


To make the pocket pop and to coordinate with the collar stand, I cut a 5"x5" square from the blue & white gingham. I used a quilting square to get a good square, then I serged the ends twice. I thought about rolling the hems of the square but wasn't that invested in the process. Serging twice allowed me to cover the edges adequately and looks good on the square folded in the pocket.

The side, back and shoulder seams have a faux flat fell seam finish. Seams sewn normally, pressed open, pressed to the side and topstitched using a twin needle. The twin needle size I used is a 6.0mm size 100 universal from Klasse'. 

This version has short sleeves too. The hems were topstitched with a twin needle using the jeans gold colored thread. The dress hem was topstitched singly merging into the button band seam lines.

BTW, I never put a buttonhole on the collar stand. I don't button it closed and I hate trying to get a buttonhole to work in that area...so I just leave it off. Sometimes I will add a button to the collar stand to continue the style, but for this dress I didn't.

Some pictures of the dress ~





Conclusion ~
This was a TNT sew and since the fit issues were worked out it left my mind free to work on the creative aspects of the dress. I really like the fit through the shoulders and bustline and how loose it is from the waistline down. If you noticed in the photos, this was a little wrinkled because I've already worn it to work. It passed the wearability test with flying colors.

At the end of my Sewcation, I thought I would probably make one or two more. However, now that I'm back to work and thinking about what else I want to wear this summer, these two will probably be the only ones I make this year. I own so many patterns, both new & old, as well as TNT, that I want to go on some other creative journeys.

BTW, if you Google "Vogue 2090" there are still some copies of this pattern available on the internet. It's a great wardrobe pattern and if you like those Vogue designer patterns from the 90s, then this one would be a great addition to your pattern stash.

The last dress from the Sewcation is McCalls 7470...it will be up on the blog soon!

...as always more later!





The Baltimore Destash

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Renee of MissCeliespants, posted this to Instagram and I was soooo in.


Cause honestly, I've reached fabric storage capacity and giving to this destash would provide me with a little (very little) relief.  At first I asked if I could just ship some fabric to her but y'all shipping is EXPENSIVE cause fabric is heavy! I did send my patterns ahead cause carting fabric and patterns on public transportation was a little more than I could handle.

Then I got with Gaylen because she wanted to attend too and it became a weekend!

I started out spending Thursday - Saturday night at the B&B with Gaylen and yet again if you haven't booked some days there or signed up for a SewCamp, what are you waiting for!?! LOL! I've been to the B&B in the winter and in the spring (cold and damp spring and a snow covered ground spring) but I've never been there in the summer.

Y'all I know why Gaylen left Seattle for PA.  It is stunningly beautiful in PA during the summer!  


There are acres and acres of farmland!

There are buggies driven by the Amish everywhere

Bridge on the road to Baltimore

Another buggy - different style

One more buggy - Sunday visiting



Okay enough about that cause I know y'all just wanna hear about the Destash! Well there were 55 women there who'd brought things from their own fabric/pattern/book & yarn collections.  All of the interesting details about how the Destash worked are here in Renee's post.

Me I was thrilled to meet up with some sewists I hadn't seen in a minute or some that I've talked to via email and social media for years but never met in person.  Then there were the lurkers (y'all know who you are! LOL!) that read my blog, that I also was thrilled to meet in person!

Gaylen and Towanda
(I've talked to Towanda via email/blogs/IG since 2001
and this is the first time we've met face to face!)

Robin Denning and myself
(Robin and I are old friends but this is the first time
I've seen her in about two years!)

Me and Towanda

Coralee, me and Gaylen
(Someone called us the "Three Amigos" and 
it does seem that way after the last Sew Camp)

Martha (IG: Garichild), me, Dee (IG: sewhotmommi) and Tee
I've followed Tee in blogland forever...and Martha well she's my fellow
Sewn Magazine sistah!

Renee, me, T (drop the correct spelling of your name in the comments please!)
and Angela - IG: Ladyregister

Alexandra from Alexandrasews

Renee & Crystal, Renee, me and Crystal
Crystal and Tee and Najah and Crystal
(I stole this pic from Crystal's IG account)


This is just one part of the dinner crew
Gaylen, Jane, Sarah, Carly, Renee, Martha, me and Susie (?)
Okay I know that's not right. Please leave your name in the comments.
I'm so ashamed because I talked to you all afternoon! *hanging head*

Y'all dinner was everything.  We talked so much and so loudly at times that the other patrons looked at us! But it was sooooooo good! I'm thrilled that I got to spend time with you wonderful women!  

Finally, I was really good. I spent most of my time socializing rather than going through the fabric piles - except when I pulled some fabric for Dee (sewhotmommi) - so this is all I brought home from the Destash.

A vintage Vera Wang bridal pattern, a yard of knit fabric
The second edition of Fabulous Fit after mine was shared with someone else

Now in all honesty, I did bring some other fabric home - two pieces from Gaylen's stash and two amazing quilting cottons from Zooks Fabrics - all is pictured below.

A wool knit panel piece and a cotton print from Gaylen

Two quilting cottons from Zooks fabrics for sleeveless shirts

I love fabric and I'm not gonna lie and say that I'm never buying fabric again...however I am being more careful about what I add to the collection. The shirtings will get made either this summer or in the early fall.

It was a fabulous weekend full of friendship, love of fabric and all things sewing. I'm so grateful I was able to attend and highly encourage every sewist who can to attend an event like this...or make one happen in your area.

...as always more later!




A few of my favorite things...

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I've been spending loads of quality time in the Sewing Cave. And as I was working on my last couple of garments, I was thinking of how much I love using my favorite tools...so of course I thought I would share them here with you.

1. My Kai Scissors


I bought these from Wawak when they were on sale and love, love, love them! They are sharp enough and cut neatly through anything. They are lightweight in my hand and don't hurt to use. I presently own one pair but when they go on sale again, I'm buying another pair! Because while I know many of you are fans of rotary cutters, I'm a scissors girl through and through.

2. My Dritz Pins and Magnetic Pincushions


I bought these pins after using them at Gaylen's four years ago. I love how they glide through most fabrics, are lightweight and pressable. Also since they have colored heads, I can find them when they fall on the floor. The Dritz pins are in the first magnetic pincushion.

My magnetic pincushion also comes from sewing in Gaylen's sewing room.  She bought her's from a hardware store but I bought mine online from Amazon. Again multiple sources both online and locally to purchase both the pins and the magnetic pincushions. As you can see from the picture above, I store two different types of pins for different fabrics. 

Right now I'm using two magnetic pincushions but I'm thinking about adding a third smaller version to the ironing board...we'll see!

3. My Pressing Shoulder


I bought this years ago off of Etsy when Ann from Gorgeous Things shared it on her blog. I love this pressing tool and use it for ANY curvy seam now. Initially when I bought it, I used it for shoulder seams of sleeves but over time I've incorporated it into all of my pressing needs.

Of course my source doesn't make these any more.  If you want to add one to your pressing tool collection, Gaylen sells them on her blog, here.  Reach out to Gaylen, if you have any questions about them.

4. The Make-up Brushes I use to clean my sewing machine


I own canned air and use it in various places in my sewing cave. But when I upgraded my sewing machine and serger, I stopped using it in my machines. Instead I bought some cheaper make up brushes to clean my machine. After a few years they went kaput so earlier this year I invested in a better set of make up brushes to clean my machines. 

Honestly got these really cheap because they were on sale and my local Walgreens offers points, so I used the points to pay for these. They have bristles that don't shed and softly clean the insides of my machines. Since I sew a lot, there is a lot of fuzz collecting in my machines and I try to keep them clean between sewing marathons.

5. Shout Color Catchers


I buy these in bulk from Amazon because I put them in EVERY dark colored and some print fabric pre-washes. Since developing this policy, I haven't ruined a piece of fabric which occurred from time to time prior to this. I bought them in a large (56 count) box last year and am still working my way through the box. I love having them on-hand whenever I need to set up the washer with some fabric!

6.  My button collection



Now that I'm making more shirts, I'm loving my button collection more and more!  I've collected enough different types of buttons that I can usually find something that matches or coordinates with my fabric. Also since I use to work for a button company, I usually have at least 2 dozen of each button. I've stored my buttons in embroidery thread boxes. This allowed me to store them by color because there were plenty of sections to store different size buttons.  They are stocked on two shelves on my computer table and are easily accessible when I need to rumble through them.

7. My Duckbill Scissors


I have several types of scissors, my Kai ones were mentioned above. These Duckbill/Applique scissors make the list because they are perfect for grading seams, notching seams and getting close to tightly sewn areas to cut things/seams for any reason. There are presently three pair in the sewing cave. One in my scissor block between my sewing machines, one in the drawer under my cutting table (where my other scissors and rotary cutter is stored) and one on the ironing board. I hate looking for things that's why they are kept at all of these places.

8. The Hump Jumper


This tool has been a godsend while making shirts. I've used it ALOT! It's also great for starting bulky seams in jeans, jean jackets or anywhere the fabric is thick. If you don't own one you should be able to purchase it anywhere notions are sold both locally and online.

9. Janome Noise Reducing Anti-Slip Sewing Machine Mat


I put this under my serger because it tended to travel all over my sewing table when it was in use. Since I've bought it, my serger is glued to the table top.  One of my best buys EVAH! It was purchased from Amazon but if you Google it there are other options if you don't like the Big A.

10.  Schmetz Needles in the 100 packages


About three years ago I started buying packages of Schmetz Universal Needles in 100 needle packages from Amazon. I have them in all sizes from 60 to 110. I'm just sad that I can't purchase the stretch or denim needles in these size packs! As I said I purchased these three years ago, right before I started this job and I haven't bought a needle since then!  Seriously the best investment, because I never worry about having a sewing machine needle when I need one.

So this is my Top Ten Favorite Things. Do you use any of these items in your sewing space?  Or do you have other faves?  If you want, share what you like below! Also, how do you store your tools? I would be interested in hearing about that too!

Finally, I was never contacted by the winner of Barbara's book so I've pulled another name - Marlene Golden - please contact me with your email address! Thanks!


...as always more later!



This is America!

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I know I said I wasn't talking politics on the blog anymore but my blog so I can do what I want.  If you're content to keep your head in the sand and don't want politics, current events, or whatever on a sewing blog...run...run now...cause I'm wading into the deep.

Let's start with the facts...as a country we do have porous borders.  Also as a country, we are much harder on immigrants of color than we are on lighter hue immigrants.  Let's also agree that America has a racist history especially if you're not of European descent.  So we should not be surprised at the new low this administration has reached by taking babies, toddlers, small and older children from their parents as they seek to gain entry into this country. And now that the "error" has been realized that there are still 2047 children being held from their parents without a reconcilation date in the foreseeable future.

photo cred: Associated Press

Let's also agree that unless you are of Native American descent, someone in your family either immigrated here or was brought here against their will.  Those are the facts whether your history book taught you them or not and they are not fake.  Let's also agree that in Making America Great Again, we're rushing headlong into a future where if you're not of European descent, you are an other...an undesirable...unwanted.

So....here we are standing on the precipice, testing the "ideals" of what people think/believe this country is...while pictures in the mainstream news feature images (which I've scattered throughout this post) of a situation that is in direct opposition to that image.  Now I know this situation is being featured differently on that other news channel or some of the right wing news sources.  But most of us in America are being bombarded with these images.

photo cred: Associated Press

The question I pose to anyone reading this post is this, "Is this MORALLY right to take these children from their parents?  Is this the ONLY way to handle our Immigration issues?  Isn't there some other way that we can do this or should we be okay with letting the children of the world become pawns in one man's quest to build a wall?

I'm sure if you're paying attention, you've heard the talking points:

1. It's the Democrats fault - they could fix this without being obstructionists
However, may I point out that the republicans control all THREE branches of government so shouldn't they be able to pass legislation to amend this..instead of going home for a holiday break. I mean they've suspended the Senate's summer vacation, ostensibly to get some legislation passed, but I suspect more for political reasons than what's being stated. So why not hang around DC and work on this issue more!

2. They are criminals who've broken the law and their children should be taken away.
Well yes, the law of the land was broken BUT we allow criminals in our own country to make arrangements for their children before they go to prison.  Or if no arrangements can be made, they are put in foster care - a system where their own language is spoken.  They are not placed in tent camps, renovated Wal-Mart's or areas surrounded by wire fencing.


photo cred:  Associated Press

3. We need to be strict on Immigration because it's taking away jobs.
Someone made the point on that other news channel, that these immigrants are taking away minimum wage jobs from Hispanics and Blacks who need those jobs.  I just can't speak on this asinine supposition because it falls under the lesser than mentality of this administration.

4. They had a choice not to come here.
Of all the reasonings this one hurts me the most because so much for the land of the free and the home of the brave, or the words on the Statue of Liberty, "Give me your tired, your poor, Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, The wretched refuse of your teeming shore. Send these, the homeless, tempest-tossed to me, I lift my lamp beside the golden door!"


And let's not forget that Domestic Abuse or Gang Violence are no longer reasons to seek asylum in America since the attorney general has taken those reasons off the list for seeking asylum. So being a battered child, woman or elderly person no longer qualifies for asylum.  Your country over run by gangs, raping and killing the people - nope - America doesn't want you. Those humanitarian reasons have been swept from the table. Stay home and wait to die...yes that was dramatic but we have reached that point, people.


Now I'm heartbroken at the images that are everywhere...but I'm not surprised because we as a country have been walking towards this very point for the last two years.  Along the way there have been people screaming, chanting, protesting and still protesting that we're going the wrong way.  People yelling the bridge is out and that danger is ahead, but this administration keeps pushing forward. 


There has been violence - murdering black men and women, mass shootings, school, nightclub, and even a newspaper office shooting and during all of the carnage this administration has turned a blind eye. I'm kinda sick of the "our thoughts and prayers are with you" response...aren't you?  Protections for the average American have been revoked, the right to vote in some areas has been denied or restricted to people of color, redistricting for the gain of one or the other political party has happened, denial of aid after hurricanes and other EPA and oil related measures revoked. THIS is the legacy of this administration.

So let's not pretend that we're surprised we've reached this point. I was going to ask a question to those of you die-hard republicans and conservatives who voted for him here but after reading a recent article, I've decided not to.  Y'all obviously love him and defend him to the end so no use wasting my breathe.  

However, to those who voted with their hand over their nose choosing what you deemed the lesser of two evils, I do have a few questions. Do you still believe that he's a good business man?  Do you believe that he truly stands for Christian values? Do you believe he's the best person to push your anti-abortion rhetoric? Cause I though it was "the children" you were concerned about?  Look if he's still your guy, please realize that there are consquences and repercussions for these actions.  The reckoning is coming.

If you did not vote in the last election for whatever reason, please realize your vote matters. That by not voting you co-signed all of the things that are happening in America right now.  If you did vote for one of the other candidates, or if you voted for him and now believe that this and other recent events in America is wrong, please take a minute to dial one of the numbers below and let our elected officials know that this is morally repugnant and just wrong!

The DOJ Comment Line - 202.353.1555
Chief of Staff John Kelly - 202.456.1414
Attorney General Jeff Sessions - 202.353.1555
DHS Secretary Kirstjen Nielsen - 202.282.8495
Acting ICE Director Thomas Homan - 866.DHS.2.ICE
HHS Secretary Alex Azar - 202.690.7000
Acting Assistant ACF Sec Steven Wagner - 877.696.6775
ORR Director Scott Lloyd - 202.401.9246

...and don't forget your Senators and Representatives

I know this is long but one last point ~
America has a long history of racism.  We can start with how the indigenous Native Americans were treated and how their land was stolen from them, also how the Eskimos were driven from their land in Alaska.  Slavery and the subsequent Jim Crow laws after the Emancipation.  The treatment of the Chinese workers who built the railway systems in America.  The internment of Japanese FAMILIES during World War II.  How even Puerto Rico and the Virgin Island who are US territories and US citizens, are treated like second class citizens.  

And yes, we weren't kind to the Irish who fled famine nor to the Italians who fled here after WWI or WWII...and even the Jewish people escaping extermination in Germany were persecuted.  Do you see the pattern here?  Do you see the hypocrisy of people of European descent who fled religious persecution and then proceeded to persecute others who followed after?

Yes, this is where we're at in America.  It's not pretty and there will be a cost to pay for our sins, if we don't do the right thing. I'm deliberately posting this on "Independence Day" after writing it at the start of the "zero tolerance" policy, it just felt apt to be posted today.

I have left the comment section open.  Play nice or I will remove comments or shut it down.  My living room, my rules...and now your thoughts...




A Spate of Quick Garments?

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As my Sewcation garments reviews wind down, only one more shirtdress to come to the blog, this post serves as the introduction to my June sewing.

After an intense week of sewing detailed garments, I sat and thought about what I wanted to add to my summer wardrobe.  In the last two summers, I've concentrated on making various types of dresses ~ t-shirt, maxis, denim and other styles, so I have a pretty nice dress wardrobe.

Summer of 2017 Sewing

I've made a couple of skirts but I really haven't concentrated on them this season. I have several maxi skirts in my wardrobe, made over the course of the last couple of years, that I'm still wearing so I don't really feel like I have a need for more skirts short or long. 

Summer of 2016 Sewing

However, there are a few on my to-sew list because I'm infatuated with several different tops and want to make them. Since I hate jeans in the summer, I need a bottom for them to go over...thus skirts.

I'm also feening for wider legged pants and culottes. I've bought a couple of pairs of RTW cropped pants because I've just wanted not to have to worry about what I was wearing under my dresses and skirts to keep my thighs from chafing...EVERY DAY! I would like 5-7 pairs of some kind of ltwt pants in my wardrobe that I can scatter in with my dresses so I made a couple of pair of pants...more to come.

So my June sewing was all about quick, easy projects.  A couple pair of pants, a duster and some tops.  That's what's up next on the blog...just waiting for photos to be taken.

I'm off for the next couple of days since the 4th of July holiday fell on a Wednesday. I am sewing and picked two designer knock-off projects. I'm not taking a "vacation" this summer just a couple of weekend trips. So I will have several more 2.5 day weekends to sew this summer. BTW, I counted ~ there are 8 weeks of summer left before the Labor Day holiday arrives. As usual I think I have more sewing on my list than I have time for!  

I want to add one more comment before I close out. It's regarding my last post and the amount of comments it generated. I am a hobby sewist. I have nothing to sell. I'm not a brand. I'm really just passionate about sewing, sharing info about sewing & fabric, and showing my garments. So threatening to unfollow me doesn't phase me. It use to but this blog is not the sum total of who I am.  As a fellow sewist, it's your right to follow or not follow the blogs that stimulate you creatively and whose philosophy or train of thought you agree with. It's that simple. 

So I appreciate the sewists who continue to come and read my ramblings, be they political or not, and appreciate my garments. I thank you for every comment you leave...no matter what it is...because I learn from them all. I can't guarantee that I won't speak to another political situation in the near future or not, so if you really DON'T want politics on your blog, please feel free not to visit again. I won't be upset. You should do what makes you happy.

If you're sticking around, there will be more garments up on the blog soon.

...as always more later!




The Embellished Shirtdress Series - McCalls 7470 in an Embroidered Fabric

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My plan was to start my May Sewcation with this shirtdress first but I made the failed B6333 shirtdress before this one. See, I was a little put off when I opened the pattern instructions and there were four pages of instructions on how to alter the pattern. While this is a good thing, it took me for a loop...probably because I was opening the pattern at 1am!


After going back to the pattern and reading the alterations, great info on those pages btw, I went with my TNT method of altering a pattern...using a garment I'd previously sewn and knew worked for my body.  I used Vogue 2090 last sewn in 2013 (before it became part of the Embellished Shirtdress series) to assist with making the alterations. 


Supply List ~
- Embroidered striped fabric purchased earlier this year from Emmaonesock
- Yellow gingham from Fabric Mart (recent purchase from Sew Camp)
- Fusible interfacing from Farmhouse Fabrics
- 12 yellow buttons from Lauren Trimming in NYC Garment District
- 1/2 yard yellow piping from Daytona Trimmings
- 1 yard of yellow bias binding from the notions stash

Pattern Alterations ~
I made considerable alterations to this pattern since the finished hip measurements were 50.5" so not my finished garment hip measurement. Also the waist/abdomen measurements were about 6" less than my own.


As I stated above, I altered the pattern pieces using my TNT pattern. Although when I reviewed the pattern, I realized that I ended up altering the front and side back pieces just like the pattern instructions suggested.  But by using my TNT pattern, I didn't have to guess at the amount of inches to add.

The other pieces that I altered was the back yoke piece and the front top yoke - just to make sure they fit the newly altered body pieces.


Construction ~
I'm one of those sewists who serge finishes all of her cut out garment pieces before I start construction but for this one I finished the seams as I sewed them. I'm trying something new and was scared the entire time that the dress wouldn't fit because I just couldn't imagine taking out the serged together edges if I needed to make some fit alterations.

Some more info:
  1. All the body seams are sewn using a 1/2" seam allowance.
  2. The fabric was difficult to sew at points because of the density of the embroidery.
  3. So I omitted all of the topstitching so it wouldn't be wonky when it hit embroidery.
  4. There's a lot of handstitching in this since I couldn't topstitch the seams...undercollar to dress and the front button bands.
  5. The handstitching let me maneuver through the dense embroidery easier but took FOREVER!
  6. The buttonholes had to be carefully placed so that I wouldn't hit any of the dense embroidery. I knew my sewing machine wouldn't like them. So I was going to take them to Jonathan's in NYC to make them instead.
  7. However, when I went to mark the buttonholes I noticed that the majority of the buttonholes were in a space that did not have embroidery.  So I gave it a try.  Some were a little challenging but my machine I got through them all!  I love my sewing machine!!!
  8. This is why this is the last garment being shared from the May Sewcation.
There were a lot of pattern pieces to this pattern so it took some time to sew. It was the perfect pattern to use during the sewcation. It allowed everything with all it's frustrations to be completed at one sewing instead of being stretched over a couple of weekends.

A few pictures ~




Conclusion ~
I will make this pattern again. It's the perfect summer shirtdress. I have fabric for a shorter length version so I need to schedule that into my sewing to do list. However, it may make an appearance in a fall edition too!

...as always more later!






The Embellished Shirtdress Series - Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress

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I've wanted to make this dress ever since it debuted. I hesitated because the plus sizes are in pdf pattern form only and you know I only do a pdf pattern for a very special garment. Honestly as much as I liked it, this pattern wasn't special enough.


...but I really wanted my own version. After A Gathering of Stitches made her version, I thought maybe I could make the paper pattern work. I double checked the finished measurements on the website and realized they were within range of my own. So the next time there was a good fabric sale at Fabric Mart, I bought the pattern and yes that means I bought fabric too *sigh*

Then I saw a picture of a dress in my Instagram feed from Draper James. 


The fabric looked similar to mine and I thought I could use the Myosotis Dress to get a similar look. I know the dress has a skirt that buttons open but that was the element I could overlook for my version. This is where I started my Myosotis Dress Journey.

Supply List ~
- 4 yards of embroidered edge navy 'n white gingham from Hobby Lobby
- 3 red buttons from the button stash
- Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply


Pattern Alterations ~
I started with a size 46 and made the following alterations.

1. For the bodice:
My first alteration was to the shoulders.  I narrowed them by an inch. This is a normal pattern alteration for me.

Then I added 1/2" to each side seam gradually from the armhole down to the waist. So that the 1/2" is widest at the waistline. This was done on both the front and back bodice piece.

Finally I slit the back dart open and spread it a 1/2" - to gain just a little more space. I did not add the waist darts to my finished bodice...side darts yes.

2. Skirt pieces:
Three inches was added to the last tier of the dress to gain some extra length to the skirt.

3. Collar changes:
To make this pattern more like the inspiration garment, I needed to add a collar. Since I'm not a patternmaker, I couldn't draft a collar piece. The next best thing was to find a pattern piece that would work. So I went with my TNT Butterick shirt pattern pieces. However, they were bigger than the Deer & Doe pattern pieces. 


I decided to shorten the collar piece by 5/8" in width so it would work with the shorter collar stand. I didn't want the collar to overwhelm the collar stand. Why did I choose 5/8"? Because that's the difference between the two collar stands.

Sleeves:
I eliminated the sleeve flounce from my dress. I wanted to use the embroidered edge of the fabric like my inspiration picture. That meant the sleeve pattern had to be lengthened.  Again I turned to a sleeve pattern that I knew worked and fit my bodacious biceps.


The sleeve from my TNT shirtdress pattern - Vogue 2090 - was used to alter the width and length of the sleeve. Although after I cut the pattern piece out, I folded up an inch  before cutting the fabric out. This was so the embroidered hem would not creep into my elbow crease.



Construction Information ~
Getting the bodice to fit was my main challenge because the tiers are gathered and can be made to work. Besides the space I added to the bodice, I also used 1/2" seam allowances though the pattern tells you to use 5/8" seam allowances.

The Collar:
I added a collar based upon my inspiration picture. I was a little concerned if my shortened collar would work but it sewed into the collar band no problem using the sewing techniques that are in my Butterick shirt pattern. I think my collar insertions are so easy because I've incorporated information gleaned from other bloggers. 

For constuction - I notch differently after seeing Emily's version, which of course I can't find now because I'm not sure if I saw it on her IG account or her blog. And I use Cennetta's suggestion of basting the undercollar down, pressing and then topstitching from the right side of the undercollar.

Topstitching:
I love the navy 'n white embroidered fabric but for the Draper James dress it's really the red embroidery that's eyecatching. So to bring that red to my dress I added red topstitching on everything...the collar...the front of the bodice...top of every tier. Hopefully the red pops and adds to the embroidery and gingham fabric as well as reminds you of the Inspiration Dress.

When I make this dress again, I will lower the bust darts since they are a tad high. You have to look to see this but I know it's there. Also, I made my bodice with a closer fit than some of the versions I've seen on the internet. I was concerned that if I made a looser fit that the dress would look like a muu-muu on me since there is sooooo much fabric in it already.

A few pictures ~

Just me hanging out by the garage doors

That close fitting backside


Hands jammed in pockets that don't work


So a few things ~ 
One - I included the pockets and then assembled the tier wrong. I haven't removed them and sewn the seam shut in the pictures above. However, I think I will.

Two - while this is longer than pictured on the envelope and shown on the internet, I want to add at least another inch to the hemline to insure that it hits that sweet spot on me which is just below my knees.

Three - I didn't use the three tiers in the Inspiration Dress. I worked it out in my head but decided to baste the last tier on and if it was too short, then I would cut the middle tier. Since the two tiers worked and I was sick of gathering, I went with it.  I would like to try a three tier version, though.

Four - I'm trying to use my gathering foot more so I become proficient with it. The gathering on this is not as much as I thought it should be and when I used the foot, I ended up with too much gathering. I'm sure that there is an adjustment to be made but I need more practice with the foot. When I fell back on my normal gathering method, it worked just fine.

Five - while I added several rows of red topstitching to the dress, I'm not sure they are visible from far away.  But I'm glad I added them. 

Wearability Factor ~
I wore this to work on Monday and got a lot of compliments on the dress...from several strangers...just people on the street...at Macys...even my Lyft driver. This dress is a winner! However, I had one challenge with the dress, when the wind blew up against the dress and raised it above my knees it made me self conscious. Although I did receive one compliment when standing at the corner waiting for the light to change and the wind blew up under the dress and created the nicest fullness. 

Conclusion ~
This is an easy sew and I recommend buying the pattern if you're looking for a loose, cool and flirty dress for summer.  I made a few alterations to the pattern to get my version of the inspiration dress.  However, about halfway through I thought if you're a plus size gal, it would be just as easy to start with the Lenox Shirtdress bodice and add the tiers. You'd have to do some math to figure out the tier length and width (why I didn't go that way) but it is doable.

At first I thought I wouldn't make this dress again.  Then I tried it on and oh my goodness, the heavens opened, the choirs sang and I was a convert. This dress is EVERYTHING! I want another one in rayon and a tunic top. Just have to figure out how to make it not look maternity.

I know I can sometimes seem anti-indie BUT if you create an amazing indie pattern that I can purchase in a plus size pattern, I'm there for you. I don't mind making normal alterations, I just hate having to grade up a pattern after paying the patternmaker for said pattern. And yet again, may I state I'm not a PDF woman. There is no conversation/argument that can convince me that paying to download a pattern, printing, taping and cutting out or sending it out to be printed is cheaper than buying one of the Big4 on sale...so don't waste your breathe...I'm solidly in the paper pattern camp.

Okay after that, may I say I love this pattern and the subsequent dress and there will be more of them in my future!

...as always more later!




Simplicity 5075 - A Duster from Elliot Berman Fabric

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One of the things preparing to attend the Baltimore Destash did, was it made me look at my pattern collection.  Like many of you, I have a lot of patterns.  However, in the collecting of sewing items, patterns are not my nemesis - fabric is! 

Lately I'm not purchasing as many patterns as I use to...partly because I use so many TNT patterns and partly because I own a lot of older unused patterns.  Sifting through them for the Destash caused me to touch almost all of them and I found some oldies but goodies that will be making their way to my wardrobe and the blog.


Simplicity 5075 is one of them.  It's a Khaliah Ali pattern from her partnership with Simplicity.  If you were sewing then, you know she helped design this amazing collection and these patterns went from a size 8/10 to 28/32W.  It was one of the first pattern lines that gave plus size women current and trendy patterns in our sizes. It was literally an earth-shattering moment in the Big4 and I collected quite a few of them.  BTW, none of the Khaliah Ali patterns made it into the Destash giveaway...some things need to be held onto y'know what I mean!



So all of that to say, that even though I have two or three current kimono/duster patterns, I went with this out of print pattern. This pattern can still be found online with a simple google search so if you like my version, there are patterns out there to be purchased.

Next - the fabric used in this project is from Elliot Berman and is part of my brand ambassadorship with them.  The last time I was in EB's NYC warehouse, I spotted this navy voile and loved it.  However, at the time, it was too cold to sew it. Plus I knew I would use it for summer.



The thing I love about Elliot Berman is the vastness of their collection AND how interesting the fabrics are - nothing dull or pedantric here.  So if you want to see their online selection of cotton voiles look here.  

I need to apologize now because there are alot of photos in this post. I wanted someplace nice to show off how awesome this duster is and how the fabric was THE PERFECT CHOICE for this pattern. My daughter chose the Douglas campus of Rutgers University. These are taken at the Student Union Building.

Supply List ~
3 yards of a cotton voile from Elliot Berman
gray foldover bias tape - Wrights
1 yard of piping from Joyce Trimmings that I used for the ties

Construction ~
This pattern has 4 pieces and was easy to construct. I made no alterations to the pattern and cut a straight 26W because I wanted a little more flow to the body. The one change I should have made to the pattern was to raise the bust seam up. Also making a straight 26 was a little bigger in the bust area than I am, using the size 24 would have probably worked better. You have to really look for this because the print hides alot. If I had made this in a solid it would have been more noticeable.


After wearing it for a couple of hours, the flowy sleeves is one of the things I like best about the pattern. Now this pattern is pretty distinctive and I do have a few other kimono patterns in the stash I still want to use, so I don't know if I will be making the pattern again.

A Few More Pictures ~ 






A Little More Info ~
I'm wearing this duster with a RTW tank that's been in my wardrobe for years and a new pair of pants from my TNT pattern. I've made a few alterations to the pants pattern and those alterations will be discussed in an upcoming post.



The pants are made from a navy linen/poly blend fabric. This fabric is from deep stash so I have no idea where it came from because the tag wasn't on this 4 yard piece. I know it's old because I haven't purchased a linen blend like this in over a decade.

I've made no changes to this pair other than the alterations mentioned above.  That's what's so good about using a TNT pattern...a new garment without a lot of angst!  I love that I'm wearing two made by me pieces together.  This doesn't happen often anymore so it makes me very happy.



Conclusion ~
This outfit is sooooooo me! I can see me wearing it in all aspects of my life. To work, to hang out with friends...with my wedges pictured above...with my sneaks and even with a pair of heels. I love this outfit so much!!! So please excuse me for spamming this post with so many photos but my Daughter took so many amazing ones.

Finally, definitely try out some of these high quality cotton voiles from Elliot Berman. You can follow them on Instagram to see photos of their stock and behind the scenes of the showroom. Or you can follow them on Facebook where they offer giveaways and Deals of the Day/Weekend!  Also if you're ever in NYC visiting the garment district, don't leave without going by their showroom and touching the amazing fabric in person. You won't be sorry that you visited them!


...as always more later!





Pinstriped Montrose Top + Full Legged Pants

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I started out making just a pair of pants to wear with my black Cashmerette Concord Tee. Then I realized I had enough fabric left over to make another Montrose top so this is what I ended up making ~


The fabric is a linen/cotton blend that was one of the five pieces I bought from Fabric Mart during Sew Camp. I got four yards of it. I originally purchased it thinking that I would make a flowy waisted shirtdress. Well since I've sworn off waisted shirtdresses, I had to come up with another plan. These garments ended up being my "other plan."

As I stated above the idea for the pants was first. Then came the top, but for this post, I'm going to discuss the top first.


Montrose Top ~
This version is made with the pattern length added back to the pattern pieces and the two-piece gathered back. Also the stripes were manipulated to make it with some black ribbon added to make the black pinstripes pop.

I also changed up the sleeves, cause why not?  I cut the sleeve pattern piece into two pieces.  Primarily because the sleeves were cut from fabric scraps after the pants and top body were cut out.

- I added a 5/8" seam allowance and sewed the sleeve pieces together - 2" down from the sleeve cap.
- Pressed open and then topstitched
- Added the 2" ribbon to the top of the sleeve
- After the top was finished and paired with the pants, I realized that I needed to add more of the black ribbon from the neckline to the bottom of the top to finish the top off.


- Rounded the edges off the end of the ribbons to finish
  

Supplies ~
2" black grosgrain ribbon from Joyce Trimmings
1.5" black grosgrain ribbon from Joyce Trimmings

I really like the black trim on the top. It adds something to the top and the black trim ties it to the bottoms.

The last thing is the darts are a little low on the top.  I didn't notice it in the first version of my Montrose because the lace hid the details. I will change the angle of the darts for the next version - because there will be more of these!




My TNT Pants ~
I'm describing these as full legged because I added some width to the sides of my TNT pants pattern to get a fuller leg but not so full that they are palazzo pants...but they are WIDE! 


I also made a change to my back pants crotch area based upon an alteration that I saw on EricaB's blog here. I've made a few changes to my pants pattern over the years as well as totally abandoning it when I lost the 48 lbs 3 years ago.  As with all things I'm back up 15-20 lbs., depending upon the day, so I'm finding it's easier to alter my TNT pants pattern again. 

Also in all honesty, the other alterations I'd made from various other sources, weren't working. Maybe I was misinterpreting the alterations...maybe it wasn't the right alteration for me...but since I'm always trying to improve my craft, I thought I would try Erica's alteration. 

The final changes to these is I added the same ribbon from the top's sleeve hems, down the sides of the pants.  Using a 2" ribbon with 1/2" seams on both sides so that I was adding an inch to both sides of the pants.


I took 1" of width out of the inner legs from 10" below the crotch because they were a little wider than I wanted them to be.  The waistline is finished with the Japanese elastic I like and found at Pacific Trimmings, as well as, Shams brought me some back from her trip to Japan. Sewing friends are the best!

Finally, when I started constructing the two pieces I thought they would work well together but I look like I'm wearing pjs when the two pieces are together.  So, they will be worn separately.

A few pictures ~




Wearability Factor ~
After these were made, I was wondering if I would actually wear the wide legged pants in the heat. However, we got a couple of days of warm weather that wasn't hot, humid and stifling. This was a great outfit to wear then. The back crotch alteration worked like it was supposed to and my pants cover my backside when I sit down now.  The pants were comfortable and I got a couple of compliments on them! 

I'm glad that I made both pieces. Both will get some wear this summer! I'm on a tear though and want to add a few more pairs of pants to my summer wardrobe...so look for more of them on the blog soon.

...as always more later!





  

Making Life More Beautiful book by Kate Davies

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I've "known" Kate for several years.  She's one of those online sewing friends that I've communicated with offline and would love to meet in person.  So I was really interested when I learned she was writing a book!



I'm always enthralled when someone decides to not only write a book but self-publish. That's determination! When Kate approached me and asked if I would review her book, it was a definite yes! 

I would call Kate's book more of a lifestyle book than strictly a sewing or crafting book.  It touches on a number of sections about beauty and making your life beautiful that add to the sewists experience which aren't normally found in sewing books.  BTW, I'm reviewing this book from a sewists perspective.


Let's dig into the book!  The first section is on Beauty which has four sections ~ your coloring, your body shape, your wardrobe & personal style and fashion.  As sewists, we need information like this to insure that we're making garments that not only fit our bodies but enhance our lifestyles.


The beauty section also contains an in-depth segment on colors and which coloring works best for our skin tones.  An important concept that sewists should master to make the best color choices for our garments.


There is a really important section on proportion.  Again a needed concept for sewists to grasp and understand, knowing how to incorporate it into their sewing projects.


Two additional parts in the beauty section that struck me were the wardrobe types and where Kate discusses capsule wardrobes. In wardrobe styles, which we know is not a new thing, the twist Kate gives it is what I loved most. She named the wardrobe styles by celebrity names, for example - the classic wardrobe style is called Jackie Kennedy!  Capsule wardrobes which are near and dear to my own heart, is detailed and how they work for a sewist in building a cohesive wardrobe that will be worn and loved.

Making is the next section ~


A really fascinating introduction which touches on why we make and the history of patterns.  Of course the first section is on sewing with several projects highlighted and instructions on how to create them.


The next two sections are on knitting (because if you've followed Kate's blog, you know she is an amazing knitter!) and crocheting where there are also several projects to make including the instructions. After the sewing, knitting and crocheting projects, Kate has included a section on making your own textiles.

Life is the final section of the book ~
This portion is all about building a beautiful life through your surroundings and developing a creative team to help inspire you to move forward in your creative journeys.

It is a well-written book full of breathtakingly beautiful pictures. It includes a resource center at the back of the book. In full disclosure I'm one of the people acknowledged and thanked. Honestly though, I read the entire book and found that at the end. I didn't know about it beforehand and was extremely touched.

So of course Kate is giving away one book to be won by one lucky sewist.  If you're interested in winning a copy of this amazing book, please drop a comment in the comment box below - only comments left here on the blog are eligible for the giveaway.  The giveaway is open from today until Friday, July 27th at 11:59pm EST.  The winner will be picked over the weekend and announced on Sunday, July 29th.

However, if you don't wanna wait to win the book, you can always purchase it directly from Kate via her blog or on Amazon UK.

Good luck to everyone entering the drawing!

...as always more later!




Destashing...

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As noted in the Baltimore DeStash blog post, I gave away 45.5 yards and as a I rumbled through my fabric collection, I realized that I was ready to let go of quite a bit more of my collection.

There are several reasons for this:
1. I've run out of storage space.
2. My daughter who has always eagerly anticipated getting my fabric collection looked at me a couple of weeks ago and told me that this was too much for her to handle getting rid of...what?!
3. I've admitted to myself that I'm NEVAH going back to Corporate America especially since I love my day job and hope to retire from this amazing workplace.

So while I only donated 45.5 yards to Baltimore Destash, I made arrangements with someone from a local high school to donate 150 yards of my "corporate fabrics." I did make sure to include some knits, poly blends and shirtings, fabrics young people would like to sew.

The bags sitting in the dining room waiting to leave!
 
One of the fabric shelves rearranged and with room on them!

Honestly this was a larger task than I'd anticipated. While I thought I would be ruthless going through the shelves, I was actually more attached to some of the fabrics than I realized. *sigh* So initially it took a lot to comprehend that even though it's beautiful fabric and I love it...it needed to go. As I said, I love my fabric collection but it's supposed to be a resource that I use and am inspired by...not just a place for fabric to come and die.  

First bag of donated fabrics

Now I know some of you have never understood the collection and why it was necessary to my creative well-being. I'm sure you're also thinking you were right about me having too much but in all honesty, the bulk of the collection is going nowhere. I'm just pruning and making it more usable for me and future sews, sorta like what a good plant owner does to their plants. I'm also determined that I can access all of the fabric that presently lives here which I was unable to do before losing the 200+ yards from the collection.  As I type that I totally understand that this is the amount of fabric in some sewists stashes.

Second bag of donated fabrics - including some 
beige/brown fabrics not shown

While I was determined to get some of my fabric piles from behind the cutting table onto the shelves that didn't happen. I did gain a lot of space on the shelves but not an entire shelf as I had envisioned.  I've had denim sitting in a corner on a box that I would rather have shelved, so I know what I have. While that didn't happen, I think I've found another portion of the cave that I can clean up and move the denim. Now to take some precious sewing time to make it happen.

Last pile of fabrics before bagging

I wanted a shirting space since I'm inspired to sew more shirts and shirtdresses now. I would like those pieces to be more visible and not scattered across the shelves. I did manage to accomplish that!




Included in the donation bags are some ITY knits because I'm admitting that I truly hate ITY knits on my plus size body and am donating quite a bit of them.  See this is about knowing who I am at this stage of my life and doing something about it...hahahahaha!

My challenge going forward is not to add huge amounts of fabric to the collection. I need to seriously use what I have on hand because there is some beautiful fabric on the shelves. Now I'm not saying that I won't buy pieces, I'm just not buying because it's pretty, because I'm emotional (mad, sad, stressed out), because there's space on the shelves for more or just because. 

I want my fabric buying to be as strategic as it's been in the last 18 months, things that I want in my wardrobe now...not in the future. So not only am I pruning the collection but I'm changing my buying habits too. My goal is for the collection to be a third to half less of it's present size by the time I retire. Long term goals yes but still in line with this post I wrote several years ago. 

Here are my monthly fabric in/out totals for June and July:

June:
Fabric in 35 yards
Fabric out 53.5 yards
As of June I had 16 more yards out than in 

July:
Fabric in 13 yards
Fabric out 169.5 yards (153 yds donated + 16.5 yds sewn)
Total yards out for July = 156.5

Finally I'm 172.5 yards more out than in for the year - thank goodness for that donation! I've given away 200 yards of fabric this year and am looking at another local high school to make another donation too. One of the things I loved in high school was the fabric pile that was donated for when I didn't have money to buy fabric. Hopefully I can provide that for another budding sewist.

Now I just need a couple months of no fabric in with only fabric out stats and I will feel like I'm truly accomplishing my goal of sewing down the collection. Here's hoping I can accomplish that since I truly love fabric sooooooooo much!

BTW, I'm also letting go of about 30 pairs of heels that I couldn't release earlier too.  I wear heels to church only so I just need some basic pairs. Plus my sneaker collection needs somewhere to rest besides my bedroom floor...life changes, y'know. 

So how about you? As your life changes does your fabric or pattern collection? Do you hold onto fabric or patterns that you're no longer sewing? Have you thought about donating these to others?  This is my Question of the Day...so talk back to me and tell me your thoughts!

...as always more later!



And The Winner Is...

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The LUCKY winner of Kate's book "Making Life More Beautiful" is...



#19 - Maria!

Maria - would you send me an email at cnorman underscore 98 at yahoo dot com and I will forward your information to Kate. She will contact you and get the book delivered to you.

Thanks to everyone who participated and if you want a copy of Kate's book, please use this link to purchase it from her blog!


August is Indies Month

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I have a couple of Indie Patterns that I've wanted to sew for a minute and I kept putting them off. Since I made a Deer & Doe Myosotis, loved it and wanted to make another one, I've decided that I would make August's theme, "Indie Month."


These are the Indie Patterns I plan on sharing this month:
Now did you see that?  There are two pdf patterns on that list. I have to say here that as much as I hate taping patterns together both of these count as exceptional designs worth the angst! LOL! Especially since I've already used a SewSewDef/MimiG pattern when I made The Saldana Dress - so while I hate the taping process her patterns are tiled so well and the landmarks to put them together are easy to follow. Also constructing it was a breeze with great instructions.

I also need to state that all, except for The Perth Dress, have been sized up for the plus size sewist. I'm making an exception with The Perth Dress because I like the style, I adore Carolyn and I believe the style is simple enough to upsize. Also, I know Carolyn is in the process of adding plus sizes to her pattern.

The other reason I've purchased a few Indie Patterns is because my lifestyle changed. No longer working in Corporate America has allowed me to explore styles and fabrications that I wouldn't have worn previously. I mean I own 2 pairs of cropped pants. Like who AM I? LOL! Oh I'm digressing, these aren't the only Indie Patterns I own, I mean besides Cashmerette Patterns (card carrying member here!) so sooner or later some of those styles will make their way to the blog too!

Now you know what I'm sewing for the month of August so a finished garment is up on the blog soon...weather permitting because it's rained enough here on the East Coast that we should send some of it west!

Oh and one housekeeping note:
I know that bloglovin allows you to leave comments but if you leave one there instead of on my original post on Blogger, you're not really talking to me.  Today is the first time I've been on bloglovin' in weeks and noticed there were comments on the Destashing post. So let that be your guide when leaving comments or questions there.  Thanks!

...as always more later!



A Trio of Katies

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The first of the Indie patterns I made is The Katie Dress, and I admit it I went a little crazy making Katie dresses...


However, in my defense, I love a great high/low hemline. And if I was gonna tape a pattern together, I'm getting the most uses out of it so I made three versions of this pattern. 


A little backstory ~
I was on Instagram watching MimiG's stories and she posted this shirt.


I've been wanting a shirt like this for quite some time. Just had no pattern on hand to use to start the journey. After a brief conversation with Mimi, she told me she'd modified the Katie Dress and that it was easy to do. I'd purchased the pdf pattern last November during the Black Friday sales and forgot about it...cause honestly pdf pattern.

But that shirt...it would add so much to my late summer/early fall wardrobe and it started to play in my mind...so I printed the pattern out and taped it together.


Yes, I know. *shaking my head* even my peeps on Instagram couldn't believe that I went in! LOL! As I started taping the pattern together, it started talking to me. Whispering softly of the things it could be...

So it became a dress as the trial run of the pattern ~


Then it became the Elliott Berman show stopper with a few pattern alterations ~


Finally with a few more alterations it became a sleeveless dress with a longer hemline ~


This is the preview before each post which will detail what I did and why. I'm starting with the Elliott Berman fabric post because there is a link to the fabric in it if you'd like some of that amazing cotton fabric too.  Then the other posts will follow.

Conclusion ~
  • Let me just say that I love this pattern. The pdf was easy to assemble which is a MUST for someone who loathes pdf patterns as much as I do and it didn't have a lot of pages to tape together! 
  • Then it was an easy sew because the instructions are fantastic and I love that at every step it reminded me that I was sewing with 3/8" seam allowances instead of the 5/8" ones I'm use to!
  • Pattern alterations were easy to make to my traced pattern pieces. Mimi you were right!
  • It IS the perfect shirtdress and shirt that I've been looking for to wear this summer! The.PERFECT.shirtdress pattern!
This pattern is still available to purchase.  If you want an easy wearing, perfect fitting shirt or dress with a great fit through the shoulders and bodice but with a abundant flow in the skirt for those sultry summer days, buy this pattern! Especially since it's sized up to a 2X and y'all know that's my pet peeve about some of the indie designs.

Lastly, I was only given the fabric for the Elliott Berman post. Everything else is paid for by me so ALL opinions are mine...plus y'all know me. I'm only effusive about things I really believe in whether it was given to me or not. So go and buy this pattern...it was worth taping it together...SERIOUSLY! LOL!

...as always more later!





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