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Channel: Diary of a Sewing Fanatic

I'm a Camouflage Sewist

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That's an intriguing title isn't it! Well what I mean is that when I learned to sew we "camouflaged" our "flaws" to give our garments a more perfect look. Now I know you're going what?  Aren't you out loud and proud about your body. The answer to that question is, "yes I am."

However, I also absolutely believe in a garment's silhouette.  Maybe it's my background in sewing or my college courses in design and silhouette. But to me silhouette is KING.  And a silhouette that covers a body part but enhances the garment is even KINGLIER to me.

I'm fat. I've gotten fatter due to health issues and the pandemic. I know I should do something about it but while I can still clothe myself and get amazing garments that are complimented in these streets, I'm gonna sew first!  

I have old lady fat arms and lately I've been sewing more sleeved rather than sleeveless garments. As an aside, I can also tell you that the Style Arc Nova will probably be worn with a short sleeve cropped sweater.

Anyways, I'm finding I like an interesting sleeve especially when it works with the dress design. It gives the garment a cleaner, more sophisticated look. 

Dress Length ~

My dresses are all maxi length these days to hide my swelling ankles. Some days they're fine and some days they look like extra tires around my ankles.  This swelling is due to the medication I'm on so they're here to stay and an inconvenience I can manage.  A maxi dress hides that and doesn't allow anyone to question why my circulation is doing weird things!

Waistline - what's that?  

Yeah mine has been gone for some time! So I sew garments that emphasize my bustline and make me feel fierce. I sew a lot of shirtdresses and the key to making them work for me is the "waistline" seam is raised on all of them. Even if I like a pattern and the waistline seam is lower, I shorten the bodice piece then add the amount back to the skirt.

Accessibility ~ 

Making pieces easy to get in and out of is very important to me. I've discussed this before because aging has made some things harder to do. So easily accessible clothing is necessary for my peace.

I've been sewing for 50+ years now. I've sewn through all the stages of my life.  Teenager, college student, young working woman, motherhood, wife, middle ages and now as I head into retirement. My body has changed with each stage of my life and I've adjusted my sewing to match it. This is why I think of myself as a Camouflage Sewist. I make my garments fit and enhance my body as I move through the stages of life.

So what about you?  Has your body changed during your sewing journey?  Have you changed techniques, pattern types, views, etc. to make clothing work for you now?

This is the Question of the Day.  So talk back to me!


...as always more later!





Notes from my Sewing Machine - Early Fall Update

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While I was on my sewcation, I needed buttons for one of my garments. So I went searching amongst my extensive button collection. As I was describing it to one of my sewing friends, she didn't realize that the last job I had in the Garment District was for a button company. Rochester Button Company to be exact.

During my three years there I learned a lot about button making, the different types of materials used to make buttons, how buttons are dyed, etc. I also accumulated A LOT of buttons. Sample buttons were ordered in gross amounts (144 pieces) and we typically ordered 5 gross. Which meant that my boss allowed me to take 2-3 dozen buttons, no problem. Three years of collecting free buttons, means that 23 years later, I still own a lot of buttons.

The other day I happened upon a history of Rochester Button Company and if you're interested it's here. Another article on the updated history once RBC left Rochester, NY. The second internet piece is for the reincarnated version of RBC with some of the team members I worked with in the 90s.

I've since purchased buttons especially during Frocktails weekend. I go through a lot of them for shirts and my TNT maxi shirtdress BUT I still use a lot from the collection too.


* * * * *

Sometimes when I look at my fabric collection, I KNOW deep down in my soul that I'm never sewing all of this before I pass on.  Yet, I continue to add to it. I'm definitely YOLOing in this circumstance!

I've also made the decision that I'm going to downsize some of my collection. Still thinking about how and when but I'm definitely thinking about sharing some of my goodies with my friends.

* * * * * 

I didn't sew half as much as I wanted to because work kept contacting me...and since I'm now the only one doing my job...I ended up working several hours every day for the first 10 days. I didn't sew or barely sewed until the Thursday before my vacation ended the following Tuesday.  To say I was upset in the way things turned out would be an understatement.

So I never got around to the Farm Rio dress. I knew that I needed time and space to work out the particulars and I didn't get it. I've shelved the project until next year. It was the only way I could move forward and sew the few pieces I did complete.

I did make a few dresses...which I've worn but still not photographed for the blog. With school starting and after school activities my daughter's availability has been slim to none. When she has been available either the weather wasn't cooperating or I just didn't feel like going through the process.

The Rivera Dress

Sewhouse 7 Romney Dress

Style Arc Montana Dress

Then work intervened again. I've been really busy and my sewjo fled. It turned back up this weekend. So I got this McCalls 7969 finished which I started during my sewcation.


 *****

BTW, I did attend NYFrocktails on October 1st. I wore this dress and had a wonderful time reconnecting with sewing friends I hadn't seen in over 3 years. You can see my recap here.

If I can get my act together and schedule a little time with my daughter, I have a bunch of blog posts about garments I've sewn in the last 2 months to share. That's my update. To all who reached out and asked where I was, thank you!


...as always more later!



The End of November 2022 Already?

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I think this is the longest I've ever gone without a blog post.  There are a number of reasons for this.

1. While I have posts for my last five garments written, I have no pictures of the garments on me.  Somewhere during the summer & fall, I just didn't feel like taking them.  While I've thought several times about posting with the garments on my dress form, I just haven't gotten there.

2. I've been having real dental issues.  Why does everything in our bodies have an expiration date on it? So I've been dealing with them and will continue to deal with them into 2023.

3. I've been having some physical challenges.  From having to use a cane to walk long distances, to catching the crud, I just haven't felt like myself.  In all honesty, I still don't.

4. Because of the above, I haven't sewn since the beginning of October, which is a lifetime in my world. However, I've had no desire to sew or acquire.  That alone is a little frightening...me not buying anything.  I totally skipped the Black Friday sales because I just don't feel like adding more to what I already own.

Speaking on that...

I've decided to downsize my fabric collection a bit.  Realistically, I'm not going to sew ALL of the fabric beauties I own.  Now when I say downsize I don't mean get rid of it all, I just mean sharing some of it with others.  About 25% of it with others, meaning I will still own quite a bit.


When I was in my 40s and 50s, I always wondered why my older sewing friends, would start to share their fabric with others.  I understand now. It's just preparing for the next stage of life and that's not a bad thing, it's just different...so I'm preparing.

Moving forward...

The urge to sew is slowly coming back.  I have two weeks off for Christmas. My last Janome project will be due and will need to be worked on.  I also have a few things on my Sewing List that I'd like to make.  Hopefully, I will sew.  Hopefully, I will feel like taking a few photos.  Hopefully I will share these and my previous posts here to the blog.  I'm feeling hopeful! *smile*

I didn't want November to flash by without at least one post from me.  So here we are at the end of the month with me hoping I have something to share with you in December.  Thanks for hanging in and checking on me.  I appreciate it.


...as always more later!




Breathe

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Y'all I feel like I'm just coming up for air and able to breathe freely for the first time in a minute.  It's been a challenging fall but I can feel the page turning. The urge to create is strong.

I'm on Holiday break from December 20, 2022 - January 2, 2023.  Fourteen days off to celebrate with my family, relax, and jumpstart my sewing passion.  I'm going to try hard to get those last garments up on the blog before the end of the year.  I really don't want to carry those posts into the new year.

I've cleaned off my sewing/cutting table.  This was it's original state:  

Here it is now:


It's looked like the top picture for so long that to have moved things around and prepped the top to actually use is so encouraging!

I reorganized my patterns. They've been moved from piles all over my sewing room to the blue & white tote next to the sewing table.  The patterns I really want to work on next are on top of the table waiting for fabrics to be paired with them.

Moved some fabric around and reviewed my Fall Sewing List. I really feel like making some tops for this winter.  I have plenty of shirts and need some variety to wear over my jeans and knit pants when going into the office.

The last photo is of my sewing machine eagerly waiting for me...

So that's my plan...it's not an ambitious one...but hopefully it will restart my sewing journeys.


...as always more later!



Metamorphosis

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Once upon a time in the year 2020, back when the plague times first descended upon the world, I came into existence. I was created to hold back some of the horror of the death and disease that was in our midst. In the home times, when we weren't allowed to venture forth, I came into being...

Now two years have passed and the world has moved on so I've evolved too. I've become a fifth of a quartet of makes. But I'm the only one that is birthed from an original Myosotis make. It is my claim to fame.

Here are my components ~

4 yards of pink chambray from Fabric Mart

1 yard of Rifle Paper & Co. from the original dress

12 pink buttons from the original dress

Please note the difference in me versus the other versions are my sleeves which were borrowed from Vogue 9266 and enlarged. Here are a few photos of the process...

Enlarging the sleeves using the Vogue 9299 sleeve pattern

The "Slice & Spread" method

Followed the instructions in this book!

Some other construction photos...

The bodice constructed using the accent fabric for the collar and the sleeve cuffs

I was almost finished when I realized I wanted the contrast print 
to not only be the bodice facing but the skirt facing too.  
This is that facing being applied.

When I FINALLY start adding buttonholes and buttons, I'm almost done!

Otherwise, I'm like my summer companions. Myosotis' who've been created to replace the ones made during the plague or in the before times when hope lived.

A few more shots of me shining...

Originally I put covered buttons on the dress front but 
after criticism by my daughters I removed them...

...and went with my original plan of reusing the original buttons!

One thing my Maker has realized is that not all creations should be donated. Some of them have more life to live and should be lovingly dissembled to bring forth a new garment. 

I am that new garment...

I've worn this dress several times.  Out to dinner with my daughters and to work but I've never gotten a picture of me wearing it. I shared it on the dressform because I really need to clear these 2022 posts out of my queue and make space for 2023.

...as always more later!



Think Twice, Cut Once...

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Originally I titled this post, "Remaking" but as I got into it I realized that Think Twice, Cut Once is way more appropriate. As you know fabric drives my creative spirit...and I've been looking for a fabric like this for awhile. It reminds me of some Dolce & Gabbana dresses from a few seasons ago.

Anywhoo, I found this RTW duster on HSN for sale. The fabric was everything I'd been looking for but hadn't found for an exorbitant price. So I purchased two of the largest sizes which were a 2x.

They arrived in a few days and I spent a couple of evenings ripping them apart. There was enough fabric to make a short sleeve maxi dress...the summer maxi dress of my dreams.

That was the easy part.  Deciding exactly what pattern to use, making sure that there was indeed enough fabric for my hopes and dreams, and then pinning and laying everything out, going over it several times, before finally taking a deep breathe and making those first few cuts...

Here is what I ended up with...


Now how did I get here...

First the pattern:

I used my Christine Haynes Verano bodice for this dress. The skirt is made from the two back pieces of both dusters.  They had the length and width I needed plus a bonus they were already hemmed. 

This is the third time using the Verano pattern so I would say it's reached TNT status.  The title of the post, Think Twice Cut Once, is because I had to cut the backs twice. I thought I had two different backs but ending up cutting two of the same side.  Not good.

Supplies:

Fabric ~

Using this fabric is like working with a border print, so I had to slow down the construction a little to think about how I wanted the finished dress to look. Also what I was willing to put up with since I had no extra fabric to pattern match!

To cut out the fronts, I used the already cut, interfaced and topstitched fronts...

The backs came out of two of the duster front pieces. I used the remaining front to cut facings.  Yes, facings.  

Piping & Buttons ~

In my mind's eye, I'd seen the bodice with piping and matching/coordinating orange buttons.  I just KNEW I had both in my abundantly equipped notions stash. Well yes and no...

I did have an orange ribbon that had polka dots on one side and was solid on the other.  I could make the coordinating piping using the ribbon and some purchased piping as the insert.


I did have a cache of orange buttons...but none worked. That meant I was going to resort to my favorite button matching method - covered buttons.  Which I do have a stash of for moments like this. However, when I went through the plastic bin that holds my covered button making stash, I found a bunch of other buttons in the bottom.

While the buttons don't match, they do coordinate with the fabric and the piping that I'd inserted. So I used them because I'd been dragging my feet on making the covered buttons.

Next I used facings to cover the piping. Since my fronts were already sewn down I needed to move away from the instructions and figure out how to make it work. The facings solved my issues.

Once the bodice was complete adding it to the skirt was no problem...

Here are my remade RTW dusters...

I have no idea why I only have one earring on in these photos?



I thought this was going to be a quick one day project even with the piping.  However, when I cut the backs out wrong, I set the dress aside and decided it could wait for my sewcation. BTW, RTW garments whether purchased new or thrifted are a great source of interesting fabric. And in this case solved a fabric desire and ended a chase.

I'm thrilled with the finished garment.  While I wanted short sleeves, once I chose the Verona bodice, I decided I didn't want the "challenge" of making and fitting a short sleeve to the bodice. It was supposed to be a fun, easy sew and I'd already complicated it with the piping & possible covered button situation.

I finished this garment during my Summer Sewcation.  As mentioned before, I didn't feel like taking pictures earlier this fall. So here I am - sharing them now before 2022 becomes a distant memory!


...as always more later!



A Floral Rayon Romey

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I have a thing for comfort. Gathered full skirt dresses with raglan sleeves work for me and are what drew me to the Sew House Seven Romey Gathered Dress pattern. Not only does this have a full skirt but it also has outside pockets that look to be sewn into the seams of the dress. I love this feature much more than in-seam pockets. I also love that this pattern goes up to a size 34 so accessible to a wide range of sizes. I made mine in a size 26.


I used a bubble crepe purchased from Fabric Mart at least five years ago.  I've been sewing with so much new fabric lately that it felt good to pull this from the shelves.

Construction Notes ~

1. The button loop pattern piece cut out was too fiddly for me. I purchased some small Goody Elastics several years ago to use for loops. I saw this tip on Katherine's blog years ago and have used it ever since. It has a good return and I don't have to fiddle with small pattern pieces. BTW, I'd picked out a button to go on the dress but never got around to adding it...and never missed it!

2. The pattern tells you to flat fell the seams. If I was working with a sheer fabric, I would definitely follow these instructions. However, I didn't see the need to do this with my rayon bubble crepe fabric. Let me state here that I'm not a fan of unnecessary finishing techniques when a simple serger finish will work.

3. Putting the neckband on was fiddly. I followed all of the instructions except the one where you fold it under and stitch down. Instead I clean finished the edge by serging the bias neckline piece. I didn't fold the entire neckline piece under.  I understitched and topstitched it down. I mean everything inside is serge finished so I had no problem with this.

4. The pockets ~ I put those pockets on twice and removed them twice, finally leaving them off. I had two issues.  One I couldn't understand how the directions tell you to put them on. Two I believe the pocket pattern is too small for the larger extended sizes. But mostly, I believe this is a ME problem and not a pattern problem. So whenever I make the next one, I will try adding the pockets again.

5. Maximized ~ the last thing I did when cutting out was add 4" to the hemline to make it a maxidress. Cause you know a midi dress wasn't working for me. I added 4" to the hemline because there wasn't a lengthen shorten line in the body of the pattern. Next time I will add one more inch because I like my maxis a little long.

A Few Pictures ~



I will make this again...probably several times!  I love raglan sleeves and this sleeve has some ooomph. It was the perfect dress for those hot & sultry last days of summer. It also received compliments every time I wore it. I highly recommend this dress pattern. 


...as always more later!



It's 2023...

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At times during 2022 it seemed like it was flying by and at other times it seemed to drag interminably.  No matter because the 365 days that comprised 2022 have passed into history and we're now moving forward into 2023.

Since I was trying to finish off 2022 posting makes that hadn't made it to the blog, I didn't do an end of year sewing review. For someone who thought they didn't sew much, I did end up completing 20 pieces. Which is a lot for the laid back lifestyle I live now especially since it's not that long ago when 40-50 garments were sewn every year.  Boy has life changed!

Let's recap, shall we...

My favorite make of 2022 would be:

This is another Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress. I love this silhouette and received a ton of compliments on this particular dress every time I wore it. I'm sure it's the fabric choice which I also adored. This dress was in the post, The Replacement Three.

The pattern that most surprised me - McCalls 7969



So much so I made it twice. This was one of my favorite summer dresses and I felt beautiful in it every time I wore it.  My last version was made late into the season and I didn't wear it out and about but it will definitely be worn in spring/summer 2023.

My favorite new top for 2022 - Simplicity 8658


I made two of these in 2022 but this one is my favorite.  I'm sure it has to do with the fabric I used. It cheers me up every time I wear it. It's also comfortable, a statement piece and it exemplifies what my lifestyle is now.

My least favorite make - The Cashmerette Club Gilmore Skirt 

My dislike has nothing to do with the pattern but with what I wanted and didn't get from the pattern. I completed the skirt, tried it on and thought yuck. It just didn't look like I wanted and that's not the pattern's fault.  That's also why there are no pictures of me wearing the skirt and probably will never be. It went straight into the donate pile.

Unselfish Sewing -


I used a scrap quilt that my Mother had originally sewn together to make this lap quilt as my May Janome project. It was an interesting sew that once again confirmed I'm not a quilter *smile* but remaking something my Mother originally sewed was a real full circle moment.

Recap:

1.  I sewed several Style Arc patterns last year and I have a few more on my list to make in 2023.

2.  2023 will start off with me in top creation mode.  I have several I want to make and add into my wardrobe for winter and early spring.  Especially since I will be going back into the office twice a week.

2.  I've receded a lot from social media for a variety of reasons but mostly because I really just want to sew...not influence anyone, not sell anything, not front for another business, etc.  Because somewhere in there the joy of creating got lost in taking the best pictures, learning to make reels, and pushing garments out to have content on my or their pages.

3.  To me sewing what I want to wear, not always using the latest patterns or the trendy fabrics to create have a much higher priority.

4.  I also want to sew more from my fabric collection because I really don't want to add a lot more to my collection. I've spoken several times about trimming it down some and that is definitely the plan in 2023.  I've also accepted the fact that I will probably buy a piece of fabric every now and then until the day I die.  I just don't want to accumulate it at the pace I've previously accumulated it.

5.  Which brings me to the fact that my contract with Janome has expired.  My last post for them goes live in a couple of weeks and then I'm done.  It has been wonderful to be in partnership with them and I will get to keep my sewing machine so I'm thrilled about that.  Hopefully, I'm parting ways with them on a good note and I have nothing but wonderful things to say about the program.  If you're interested in repping an amazing sewing machine company, you should apply to them.

In conclusion (sounds like Your Honor should go there!  hahahahahaha), I want to find my joy in sewing again.  Make what I want.  Take flights of fancy.  Take my time and marinate in a project. Use some techniques that have been hanging out in the back of my brain because if not now, when? Dive into my fabric collection and pull out some of the treasures but most importantly I will continue to blog.

Yes, I'm sticking with blogging because honestly it's how I like to communicate my sewing with the world best.  Don't know how frequently I will do it but I plan to continue sharing here. I will keep up my IG page too but when I want and how I want.  I'm not trying to buck IG's algorithm - find me, don't find me, I'm good.  I will NOT be getting a tik tok page. I like to share my makes but it's the creating I desire more...and I want more of that on my own terms in 2023. I hope you'll still be hanging out with me here...


...as always more later!






Do You Jelly Roll???

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Let's start out by saying I'm not a quilter.  Even though I've made several "quilting" projects, they're not my top must sews.  However, I love jelly rolls.  The thought of them, how the fabrics play so well together, how they can become so many different things.  

Whenever I see one, the possibilities of what the new yardage can be inspires me.  Especially black & white jelly rolls.  So while I'm not a quilter, I was inspired to buy several jelly rolls and make two yards of fabric from them to create a top.



Supplies used ~

2 packages of black & white Ankara strips purchased from Cultured Expressions.  Each package had 20 strips.

1 yard of solid black cotton fabric from StyleMaker Fabrics for the strips, sleeves and back insert.

7 3/4" buttons purchased several years ago from Pacific Trimmings

1/2" black bias binding also purchased from Pacific Trimmings


First let's discuss making the fabric ~

Honestly, this was the most tedious part of the sew and took me about 4 days to complete. I whined through this part because not only was each seam sewn but they were pressed open, then flat, and serge finished.

  

Here's how I made it ~

1.  Sorted the strips into piles.

2.  Determined how I wanted the layout of the strips to look.

3.  Sewed the strips together using a 1/4" seam. My sewing machine has a 1/4" foot with guide and one without a guide.  Using the one with the guide was SOOOOOOO helpful!

4.  After 11 strips were sewn together, I added a black strip cut in the same dimensions (2.5" x 45") to differentiate the sections.

5.  When each section was sewn, I pressed the strips to the left side.  Then each strip was serge finished. I did this because my yardage will be used for a garment and needs a cleanly finished inside.

6.  Continued this for 3 sections to get the yardage I desired.

You can see I made this yardage during my Christmas break!

Once you decide how much yardage you need - I needed 2 yards to make the top front, back, front facings and sleeve bands - then you can start your garment's construction process.

Since I had all of those seams, I chose a pattern that didn't have a lot of pattern pieces. I didn't want to cut apart the fabric I'd just sewn together. So I started with Anna Allen Clothing's Anthea Blouse.


Design/Construction Changes ~

I need you to know that while this pattern goes up to a size 22, in my opinion, it's not size inclusive. The hip measurement on a size 22 is 51" way below the amount of space I need for a flowy hemline.

I made some simple pattern adjustments to get the top to fit me.

  • I'm bigger on the bottom than the top.  So the shoulders and bustline on the size 22 fit with no problem.  My challenge is my abdomen and waist.
  • I also had no challenges with the sleeves since the design is for very wide sleeves.
  • On the front pattern piece I did a slice and spread from the abdomen to the hemline - spreading the pattern 1" at the hemline.
  • To add width to the back, I went with a design technique to get the necessary width. Especially since I needed to go from 51" to 65" at the hemline (this includes ease for wearing). 
  • I added an 8" insert to the back that when opened, gave me more than enough space in the abdomen and hip area.
  • The back pattern piece says to cut on fold. I cut them as single pieces adding 1/2" seam allowance to both. 
  • Then the insert was sewn to either side of the back pieces using a 1/4" seam allowance. 
  • I chose a point about 6" down the back and stitched the original two back pattern pieces together using a 1/4" seam allowance. 
  • Press flat and open and walah, extra width and cool design feature.
  • The last design feature was to cut the sleeves from the solid black fabric and the sleeve bands from the jelly roll fabric. 



A few more things ~

- I did lengthen the blouse by 3" because my comfort level is that everything adequately covers my abdomen and backside.

- I didn't want topstitching to show on my blouse front.  So I hand stitched the bias binding down and didn't include topstitching on the front facings.

- The pattern tells you to double roll the hem and topstitch it down. I used a bias binding to finish the hemline because the bulk in double rolling the hemline would have distracted from the finished look.

I have this thing about "corralling" patterns so your eye has a place to rest. I think it makes the finished garment more appealing to the eye. That is why I used the black sleeves, black strips, and black back insert.

Here are a few pictures ~





I did make a few design decisions that affected the end result but everything was done to highlight the beautiful fabric made from the jelly rolls. This was the only thing I made during my Christmas break.  Making the fabric took 4 days alone, then construction took another 2. I was fine with this project taking up the bulk of my sewing time.

Especially since this is my last post as a Janome Maker.  I've been a Janome Maker for almost three years and it's been a privilege and an honor to rep one of the best sewing machine companies out there. I'd like to thank everyone who worked with me at Janome to make this one of the best experiences ever!


...as always more later!




I've Been Sewing

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My sewing resolution for 2023 is to take my time, create more involved garments, and enjoy the journey more.  

My reasons are:

  1. I don't need a lot of new clothes.  I have a few holes that need to be filled but not enough for me to create large amounts of clothing.
  2. I want to explore the technique driven side.  Not just sewing techniques but fabric manipulation, dyeing, printing, quilting, the techniques that take time and aren't accomplished in a weekend.
  3. There have been some ideas that have been floating around in my mind that I've always said, when I have more time.  And as the saying goes, "You MAKE time for the things you want to do."  So I'm making time.

While I'm concentrating on making tops, because that's what I NEED right now.  I'm making tops with fabrics and techniques that need special handling. I want to take my time and enjoy the journey.  Sewing this way is going to slow my making way down...and I'm good with that!

I may even do more progress posts so my finished posts aren't so long and involved. I have one top finished, waiting for buttons and buttonholes and one top that I've just started.  However, the fabrics I used are what makes each top so distinctive and enjoyable to sew.

This is the first tunic I worked on in 2023. It's a MimiG Katie tunic that I've made several times before.  However, it's the panel print I used that made this sewing journey so enjoyable.

My second piece is a pleather and knit top from Cashmerette Club called the Wexford.

I have a few more tops queued up with fabric and patterns pulled and there are two more housedresses I want to add to my "house dress collection."  2023 is going to be an interesting sewing year and I hope you hang with me on my sewing journeys.

...as always more later!



Floral Pleather & Black Knit Wexford

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I've hoarded this pattern since it was introduced for the Cashmerette Club. While it debuted last summer, I always knew I wanted The Wexford for a winter top. It reminds me of my Pembrokes and this white cotton top that I wear all the time.

Rambling through the fabric collection, I found this floral pleather that I used in a denim dress in 2016 and some black knit I bought from StyleMaker fabrics in 2021. I've used the black knit before in one of my house dresses.  

Seems like this black knit was purchased to be the assist in garments instead of the star player.  

Here are the players for this version...

This is an easy sew complicated only by the pleather fabric I chose for the front.  I like everything about this even though I did lengthen it 2" and may lengthen it 2 more inches for future versions.

I use to have a policy where I wouldn't wear a garment until it had been photographed.  Since I'm no longer always up to pictures, I wore this to work 2 weeks ago.  This was one time I wished I'd taken the pictures first because then I would have realized that my pleather was bad.

The pleather separated from the knit backing at the side seams and it fractured in other places on the front. It was so much that I was shedding white confetti or pieces of pleather EVERYWHERE.  The black knit pants I wore with the top were covered in white sprinkles.  Even my black sneakers looked like a box of confetti had blown up on them.

A Few Pictures of the Damaged Top  ~


This was definitely a fabric fail and not a pattern fail.  This top was very comfortable to wear and I will be making more. Actually have one cut out to sew now. 

This pattern is part of the Cashmerette Club of which I'm a member.  I don't download the pattern every month but the ones I do I really like. I really like this one so plan on seeing several more versions of it.  


...as always more later!





It Feels Like Spring

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The clocks have sprung forward an hour.  It's light longer and here on the East Coast it's been a relatively mild winter.  I, for one, haven't missed the snow piles or the bitterly cold days. So it's with a happy heart that I'm emerging from the darkness of winter and thinking of Spring.

My company has updated it's work from home policy and we're now required to be in the office 4 days a month. Since I absolutely HATE carting my laptop back and forth, I'm going to be in the office 2 days a week from now until at least October/November...which has made me want to sew some new garments.

I've been looking at the spring/summer offerings online, saving pics of items that caught my eyes.  These two interpretations of the same dress sparked an interest.


Probably because I've made it before and this dress is still hanging in my closet. 

It's from an out of print, Simplicity 2894 pattern. When I made it in 2017, I had planned to make more.  That never happened but I really want to make a few this year because it was an easy to wear, very comfortable dress.  I have several printed linens that would look amazing in this silhouette.  Of course I will maximize it since my ankles don't look as good as they did in 2017. 

I've been thinking about what I want to sew for spring.  Again it won't be a garment a week because I don't have the need even with going back to my office.  However, I'd like to add some different dress silhouettes to work with the dresses I made last year.  I'd also like to add some tops/blouses and toppers to wear over jeans. Realistically it doesn't get dress warm until late May/early June so a couple of those would be nice to add to my wardrobe too. 

Those are my thoughts as we roll further into March with Spring on the horizon...


...as always more later!


A Funeral Dress

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My cousin recently passed away and I realized that I no longer own a proper funeral dress.  My lifestyle is so casual now and most funerals during Covid either happened via Zoom or YouTube so I didn't need to be "dressed" to attend a funeral.  And if you don't know, a Black funeral is a celebration of life.  So not only is the funeral a celebration of the person but people of my generation tend to dress our best.

So I needed a dress.  I did have enough time to rush order some black linen from Fabric Mart because spring has sprung here on the East Coast. My pattern of choice was the Style Arc Hope Dress using the extension pack. Buttons and black bias binding came from my notions stash.

Construction was easy and didn't take long, 8-9 hours over the weekend, that was cut out to finished dress. 

  • I did add 8" at the lengthen/shorten line and another 1" to the hemline of the skirt pattern piece to maximize the dress.  Probably why the Hope Dress is so popular.
  • The other construction item was I used a 5/8" seam allowance to sew the bodice to the skirt instead of the 3/8" the pattern recommends. This was to cover the 2 rows of basting stitches.  
  • I added my label to the facing.  
  • Then used bias binding to clean finish the facing because I wanted some pretty in the dress, even if I was the only one to see it.  
  • The black & white buttons were from my notions stash and gave the dress a pop...cause seriously all black.

I made this one in a size 22.  The last time I made this dress, I chose a size 26, why? That one the fit was too loose, this one fits way better. 

I know extension packs can seem like they're not worth the money. But this extension pack is GOLD! I have plans to make several more dresses using this button front version and the bias bound neckline. There are some rayons lounging in the fabric collection that would do this pattern with the extension pack justice.

The photos below are how I wore it to the funeral. These were taken right as I got home...



As I stated, I will be making more of these for spring/summer! BTW, I will be off the week after Easter.  A short trip with my grands and then a little sewing. Since the weather is changing, maybe some pictures too...

However, I do have a question, do you have a dress or suit for funerals?

...as always more later!




A Sunflower Katie

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For this make, the panel fabric totally drove the idea. I saw this fabric on Julia Allisson Cost's IG account and I knew I had to have some because...

Sunflowers are one of my favorite flowers.  They remind me of my grandmother's garden and the summers I spent on my grandparents farm. BTW, it was my grandmother who taught me how to sew.

The fabrics come from Julia's hand painted art.  Which means the fabrics are different and unusual and that always excites me. 

The Pattern:

When I saw these panels on Julia's site, I knew they would make "the perfect"MimiG Katie shirt.  BTW, this is one of those TNT patterns I revisit over and over again.  I've made several and they're still on rotation in my closet. I love this silhouette because of the ease of wear, comfort factor and how different fabrics can make interesting variations of the pattern.

Pattern Layout:

The front & back pieces were placed directly on the sunflower print so all the other pieces could be pinned around them. I wanted the sunflowers to be the focal point.

The sleeves were cut into two pieces and stitched together because there wasn't a white piece wide enough for the full sleeve.

When I realized the button front bands were sewn on, I made sure the shirt front and the button front pattern pieces were laid side by side on the fabric.  This allowed the print to carry across the front of the shirt which is what I wanted.

The collar was cut from leftover stem pieces because I wanted the print to play well together.  A white collar would look disjointed with the sunflower print button fronts. I ended up having to piece the fabric together to get a full collar.  It works because you don't notice the seaming on the collar piece.

The collar band was cut from a yellow gingham that's been in the fabric collection for years but originally purchased from Fabric Mart. I was going to use this gingham for the collar band, the hem facings and the pockets. BUT the gingham was too bright underneath the white fabric.  

I pivoted by using it only on the collar band. I used a lighter yellow gingham bias binding that I bought during my last Carriage Corner Sew Camp weekend for the hem facing. I love how its barely noticeable on the hemline.

Other Supplies:

I chose a button with a transparent greenish cast because it worked with the variety of colors on the front band.

Construction:

This is a simple sew. Probably why I make it again and again.  The only changes I made was to omit the pockets. I know but I'm just not a pocket girl. Also I used the bias binding mentioned above instead of the hem facings.

One thing to note - I did change the thread to sew the buttonholes on so they would merge into the background instead of stand out.  I wanted nothing to diminish this fabrics beauty.

A Few Pictures:




I referenced this garment in my Threads Interview.  

Where they asked what I was currently working on.  A link to the article is here.  

I have a few more Katie's planned using some very distinctive prints. Sooner or later they will make an appearance here. This make falls into my taking my time, using an amazing fabric to make a distinctive, totally me garment.


...as always more later!

Dueling Wexfords

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As I stated in my fabric fail Wexford, I was definitely making the pattern again. While the fabric shred as I wore it, the silhouette held up really well.  So I made 2 more unintentionally making them both in the black family.

In the first post, I didn't talk about any of the changes I made to the pattern or the size I used. I cut a size 24 and added 1" to the hemline...though I may add another inch for future versions.

While I've only used this pattern as a top, I will be making the dress portion later this spring. It's such a relaxed and comfortable wearing garment that I can see a longer version of this for summer wearing.

Wexford One:

The first Wexford is made from a black & white rayon knit purchased from Fabric Mart's brick & mortar store.  The changes to this one are that the neckline and sleeve hems are bound in some black knit scraps. As with the first one this is an easy sew. 



Wexford Two:

The second Wexford is made from a luxurious rayon knit that was purchased from Elliot Berman's shop pre-Covid.  This means that it was from the old place and not the new one.  Also the hand on this fabric is lush. I chose this fabric in an attempt to replace the pleather version.  

For this one, I used a black fold over elastic trim instead of the binding piece included with the pattern.  Other than that there were no changes.  Again a quick sew that let the fabric do the talking.


Besides making the dress version of this pattern, I have a few more top versions floating around in my head - a lace one, maybe a mesh one and finally I have several cool knits that would look amazing in this silhouette.  So sooner or later more of these will show up here.

Don't forget this is a Cashmerette Club pattern so if you want a copy of the pattern you will need to join the club either monthly or yearly. Oh and they're PDF only patterns...


...as always more later!



A Follow Up to "My Fabric Collection is my Retirement Fund" Post

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I wrote this post, My Fabric Collection is part of my Retirement Fund, back in March 2016. I was about 10 years out from retirement then. I'm now three years away from it. My retirement date is on record at my company that's how close it is.

After rereading the post and the comments which are so interesting, I wanted to do an update to this post for a couple of reasons:

1. Covid

Covid changed everything in 2020.  The way we work.  The way we shop. How we live.  When the world shut down in the spring of 2020 due to the pandemic, it caused us all to reassess so much of our lives.  That reassessment affects us all to this day.  It also made me very grateful for the fabrics, notions and patterns I had stashed. I sewed without challenges when it seemed like the world was coming to an end.

2. Moving & Changing Lifestyle

I've lived in this apartment for three years now. I packed, moved, unpacked all of that fabric in the midst of an illness.  An illness that caused me to re-evaluate a lot of what was important to me.


Also, I no longer work in an office four days a week. During the spring until the end of the year, I go in two days a week which changes what I need to wear and sew. Hybrid work arrangements are more the norm since Covid.

My lifestyle is slower now. I'm happy spending time with a good book or a good TV show cause Covid even changed that! There are so many streaming options and movies released to TV.  TVs are larger, less expensive (relative to the inflation we're presently experiencing) with more options to give you that movie theatre experience at home.

3. Balance

My life is more balanced now.  Back in 2016, I worked, sewed, and hung out with friends/family a little. It was like a 50/40/10 split. I read a little but since commuting took up so much of my time, I used my commuting time to do several things.

Now since my commuting time is greatly reduced and even though I have more responsibilities at work, my life seems more balanced. I'm working on spending time equally between sewing, reading, time with my grandchildren and making sure I'm available for my friends. This seems a more realistic picture of what my imminent retirement will look like.

Now let's discuss the main topic of that post - my fabric collection. If you've been reading along, you know I want to reduce my collection by about 20%. That reduction that was discussed some in the comments due to retirement is in full affect in my life. I have several reasons for wanting to lose a portion of it:

  • I want some of my living space back in the Resource Center. I want to reuse some of the wall space currently holding fabric.
  • There are pieces I know I won't use and I want them to go to another sewist who will enjoy them.
  • I've been culling my collection all along but the thought of having to move this much fabric again gives me the heebie jeebies.  And who knows when or if I will need to do so.  Making plans ahead of time just seems wise.

While I'm not concerned about my fabric collection in the event of my death, my daughter has a list of sewists who live nearby who can have dibs to my collection.  She has first rights to everything and the sewists on the list know who they are. This allows for a smoother transition of my things for my daughters. Yes, I thought up this plan when I got sick in 2020.

Finally, while I didn't purchase a lot of fabric in 2020, I did start buying in large amounts again in 2021 and 2022. I've slowed down buying fabric in December 2022 and this year so far I've only purchased a few pieces. My purchases are more well thought and creative driven now. I've been using my fabric money for books.  

However, I also want to use some of those beautiful fabrics I've accumulated. I want to make amazing garments to move around the world in.  Pieces that won't be seen on anyone else. I want to take those sewing journeys while I can still enjoy them.  I want to enjoy the sewing while I can.

That's the update to my post. How about you?  How have your attitudes changed towards sewing in the last seven years? Did Covid affect you? Did the supply chain shortages from Covid cause you to keep more sewing related items on hand? Do you still work 5 days a week at your job's location? Or do you work from home now? Have you retired or is retirement imminent?

I want to hear your thoughts, so talk back to me!


...as always more later!




McCall's 7969 in Black & White

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I loved my first one and understand why there are so many versions on Instagram and Pattern Review. I'd always planned to make another one and when I found this black/white floral double border print I knew it would be perfect. Especially since lately I've really been in a fabric manipulation mood.

Materials ~

4 yards of the black & white rayon floral double border print purchased from StyleMaker Fabrics in July 2022 which of course is no longer available.

Cutting Out ~

As you know the most important part of making a border print stand out is how you use it. A double border print presents it's own unique challenges because technically you only have 1/2 of the fabric to use. I will admit that it took some fiddling to make this fabric sing.

I knew that I wanted the front & back bodice pieces to be floral. The sleeves would also be made from the floral print because I wanted the bodice to pop.  Determining how the skirt would work using the border print was the intriguing part. I was thrilled when I settled on using the borders as the sides of the skirt panels.

Construction ~

The only change between this one and the first is the sleeves. I really like the flare sleeves on my first dress. It's airy and easy to wear plus it covers my larger upper arms. However, there are so many sleeves with elastic hems being shown now that it seemed an easy adjustment to make. I added a casing and some 1/2" elastic to make the hem elasticized.

One more thing to note. I didn't adjust the neckline so that it would sit closer to my body. I like wearing a tank top under the dress. Especially since for this one I can use the solid color as a focal point for this very busy print. 

A Few Pictures ~


As of right now I have no plans to make this pattern again...but never say never! *LOL*


...as always more later!






I'm a Fabric Snob

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Seriously a snob and if you don't know that you don't know me! LOL! I love fabric and all of it's different fabrications. Now I won't sew it all but I do love it! I also don't like basic fabric or buying fabric that a lot of other sewists use cause who knows when you will see yourself coming or going.

I know I have the luxury of snobbiness because I work in NYC and can visit the fabric shops there anytime. While the garment center has changed, it's still a treasure trove of amazing fabrics that can be touched, purchased and even shipped home from some merchants. I know I'm not limited to "The Craft Store" commonly known as JoAnns.

However, that's one of the things I want to discuss...The Craft Store. It's obviously been upping it's fabric game. Lately I've been seeing fabrics that sewists I admire are using purchased from The Craft Store. Color me impressed! Not impressed enough to give them my fabric dollars but impressed just the same.  

Especially since I understand that not all sewists want to shop for fabric online. Though as an aside, I don't get that since online fabric merchants do a fabulous job of photographing and describing fabrics. They also offer things that The Craft Store doesn't carry. But, if you need fabric, The Craft Store is offering better choices now so bravo to them.

Now back to my snobbery...I'm an old school fabric aficionado. I love natural fabrics. I love types that aren't so commonly sold any more - wool crepes, linen and linen blends like linen & silk, silks of various weights, beautiful challis, jersey knits and rayon pontes. I like a fabric with a beautiful hand that pretreats well and resembles the original fabric after the pretreatment process. 

I love a good print.  A print woven in is always superior to a printed one. However, I will buy a printed fabric if the colors are vibrant and the borders clear. I love, love, love a good panel or border print because the flights of fancy you can take while using them is unlimited.

I'm such a fabric snob that I have a list of online fabric stores that I will always shop. I use to experiment more and try out online fabric stores mentioned by sewists I admire.  Now though I stick to what I know because my list of retailers haven't let me down.

Now my love of fabric is well documented.  But what about you?  Do you love fabric as much as you do patterns? Are you a keeper of many different types of fabric or do you buy as needed? Shop online? At The Craft Store or another local fabric store near you?

Talk back to me because this is "The Question of the Day"


...as always more later!



A Blue & White Hope

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Last year I was on a real tear to purchase blue & white toile type prints. I ended up buying a blue & white print that was similar to a toile and an actual blue & white toile. I was really proud that I only bought two pieces! I'm even prouder that I'm using one for my next Hope.

Of course this is the Hope Dress using the extension pack and it's exactly the same as the funeral dress.  As with all remakes, I improve something with the next version.  For this one, I shortened the length of the elastic I used in the sleeve hems.  I also left the pockets off this one too.

Materials ~

The fabric is a 100% digital linen shirting from StyleMaker Fabrics purchased last year and it's still available to purchase.  

The four 3/4" white buttons are from my button collection purchased so long ago I have no idea where I bought them. 

I used 26" of 5/8" elastic for the sleeve hem casings.  The pattern recommends 1/4" but that would get lost on my body so I changed it.

That's it.  A nice, easy, relaxing sew where I just took the journey.

A Few Pictures ~





(feeling like a matron on an English cliffside with the wind blowing!)

I have fabric set aside for one more version of the Hope Dress using the bias bound, tie front bodice and the original sleeves.  That will be enough for awhile since I will have three different Hopes in my spring/summer wardrobe (not including the funeral dress).  If you don't have this pattern yet, I highly recommend it!


...as always more later!



I'm Reading More Lately

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As I've stated in several posts, I'm sewing less. And I'm okay with that because I create as I need now and it's enough.  So I've filled the sewing time with reading. If you're only here for the sewing tap out now. Cause I have lots of thoughts about the books I'm reading and how it's different now.

I believe the biggest difference is social media. Between BookTok and Bookstagram, I'm finding authors I never knew about. I've also changed the genre I'm reading. I was primarily a true crime, mystery/thriller, lifestyle, best seller novels reader. I've totally gone in the opposite direction.  Where before I maligned romance novels, now I'm chest deep in them.

I need the escapism they provide.  The world has been through so much in the last 3 years that escapism fare provides the perfect backdrop to the sh*tty things that we humans continue to inflict upon each other...without adding a global pandemic into the mix.

When I was younger romance novels were those little Harlequin Romance books with some bodice ripping, unbelievable characters and situations. Well things have changed in that genre. Not only are there a ton of new authors but the niches have changed too.  Fantasy Romance (vampires & werewolves & fairy lands), Magical Romance, Mafia Romance, LGBTQIA romance, Interracial Romance tales, Plus size Romance tales...it's enough to make your head spin.

There's also a ton of new authors with a myriad of writing styles, choosing to write about sex in a variety of ways. It's inspired a lot of conversations with my daughters. LOL!

Anyway, my reading has exploded.  I've read 63 books since January. I read when I commute, waiting for the doctor and dentist, and instead of spending evenings in front of the TV I'm curled up on the couch on weekends...pretty much all the dayum time.  One of my daughters said, I always have a book in hand now and that's true.

Who am I reading?  After 6 months of serious reading I've developed some favorites, Kennedy Ryan, Lucy Score, Talia Hibbert, TL Swan, Lauren Asher, Beverly Jackson, Brenda Jenkins and Taylor Jackson Reid. Though I have a few other new faves too. 

I follow quite a few bookstagrammers on IG as well as Oprah's book club, the Good Morning America book club, Amerie's book club and Reese Witherspoon's book club. I'm also on GoodReads with a small circle of friends. I like variety and it's nice to see so many books available and what my friends and others choose to read. 

Lastly, I purchase most of my books from either Amazon or Barnes & Noble, because there is nothing like walking into a bookstore and perusing what's there! Sort of like fabric shopping in a bricks & mortar store! I'm also reading off my Kindle App on my iPad which offers even more books!

That's what I'm doing instead of sewing. How about you?  Do you read?  If so, what genre do you like?  Any fave authors or books you'd like to share?

I promise more sewing content is coming because I've paired some patterns with fabric for a few new pieces to be sewn when I'm not reading! LOL!


...as always more later!




Slipping into July...

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Interestingly someone on Instagram said that I'd abandoned my blog, which I thought was fascinating since I have posted blog posts in 2023. I do try to post monthly, however, if I'm not sewing much there isn't much to share.  Especially since I'm slowly stepping back from the sewing community on social media.

My blog has primarily always been about my sewing journey. I mean over the years I've thrown in some politics, books, museum trips and sewing/fabric shopping adventures. But sewing is my blog's focus and if I'm not sewing, just what is there to say?

Also I was primarily a sewist that made garments to wear to work. Now that I only go into the office twice a week, I have MORE than enough items to choose from to wear.  And for the first time in my 50+ years of sewing, the amount of sewing items I own start to overwhelm me if I think on it to hard. So I purchase few new patterns and even less fabric yardage.

Pieces taken from the fabric collection - all from Fabric Mart

However, my sewjo has flared it's head. Since it's a 4 day weekend and I'm off work to celebrate the 4th of July, I've decided to balance my reading with a little sewing.  I pulled the fabrics above because I want a couple more Wexfords and an eyelet Vogue 9299 to wear with a pair of white capris.

I also have a Rifle & Co Hope dress using the extension pack dress cut out.  There's also a very complicated border print Mysostis dress in pieces waiting to be completed. I started this in early June but since I complicated it, I got stuck with the button front panel. Hopefully I will be inspired to work on it this month and finish it up. I think it will be distinctive when it's finally done!

This is my sewing update as I slide into July...


...as always more later!


Hey Y'all Hey...

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I'm dropping in to say hey, I'm still alive...just not sewing.  I've spent the summer reading.  However, as I read the words an author's put on the page and recognize their creativity, my own creative urges are stirring.  Maybe it's the seasons changing, or allowing a friend to root through my fabric collection and liberate several yards to take home with her...or even just my creative season changing.  But I have an urge to create a few new pieces.

One thing I've realized is gone are the days where I will make a new creation every weekend. I no longer live that life.  I've made a lot of clothing, items that I can still pull from my closet and wear.  As a matter of fact I wore this jacket to dinner last night with a sewing friend...

It was thrilling to pull it out and pair it with a sleeveless top I'd made and a pair of black knit pants. When I looked at the innards, I was pleased to see all of the work that I had put into it and shared in my blog post.  This is the kind of sewing I want to get back to. Where I pick a distinctive fabric, take a pattern and use the best sewing techniques I know to end up with a unique garment.

Plus I knew my sewing drought was ending when I purchased several yards of fabric from Julia Cost. It's been over five months before I thought about using my credit cards for something other than a book!  Don't know when my next post will be but the creative juices are stirring.  Fabric and patterns have been pulled and placed together, inspiration is talking to me, so we shall see what comes of it.

If you're reading this, thank you!  I think this is the longest I've ever gone without sewing, posting or discussing sewing and if you're still reading I appreciate you!


...as always more later!







A Different Sewing Focus

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I needed to write a "biography" to share my sewing background. I honestly can't remember all of the stuff I've done since it's been awhile. So I googled my name plus Diary of a Sewing Fanatic and EVERYTHING I've done in the last 20 years came up...that was truly a little overwhelming.

However this article I wrote in August 2017 really struck me. It was on The Curvy Sewing Collective blog called, "Does Your Pattern Speak to You?  Or why I Pattern Hack!"  At that time, my sewing was all about pattern hacking. The article even links to some of my greatest pattern hacks. Then my TNT dress pattern was the gateway to fantastical journeys I made using fabric, scissors, pattern paper & tape to end up with garments that no one thought a plus size woman should wear.

Seven years later, I can say my sewing journey is all about the fabric! I don't create nearly as many garments as I made in 2017-2018.  Now I really like challenging fabrics.  Fabric that makes me think about how to cut it out so that it speaks effectively to the garment's design. Fabric that's different and unusual - not something you'd find at JoAnns. Now while I own a lot of fabric (understatement of the year!) I'm always on the lookout for an amazing panel print, border print or combo of fabrics that are unusual and unique.

Here are a few of my border print/panel creations from the last two years. Garments I'm particularly proud of since they represent my love of taking a flat piece of fabric and making it into something distinct.






Back view


I'm in the midst of making an amazing topper using a TNT pattern and a border print in a fantastic cotton corduroy. More details about it will be shared shortly.  I just needed to record here what my sewing focus is now and how I will be moving forward. I love fabric especially the different and the strange.


....as always more later!


A Woodland Border Print Simplicity 8687 - Part 1

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First, I'd like to say thank you for all of you who still follow my sewing adventures and leave a comment.  I so appreciate you! Just one quick thing ~ I know blogger has made logging in more challenging so if you use "Anonymous" would you mind leaving your name at the end of your comment.  Thanks again!

Now to the actual blog post...

I use to write progress posts all the time for my makes.  Somewhere in the last couple of years I stopped. I'm changing it up again and going back to writing progress posts.  I appreciate being able to scroll through those old posts and see what I did and why.  Since I'm not sewing as much these days, I feel like I need to share why I make decisions as I'm making them in the moment.  My sewing decisions are primarily based upon my experience. The experiences that affect how I'm sewing going forward.

I purchased a bunch of Julia Cost's fabrics a couple of weeks ago after not buying fabric for almost six months.  That's a LONG time in my world!  However, purchasing it really jumpstarted my mojo which has been vacationing.  I want to use all three of the fabric pieces I purchased taking my time to make them sing.  I also know I want to use TNT patterns for these garments.  I want to manipulate the fabric not fiddle around with fit.

Also, I feel like I haven't been walking in my essence for the last year.  I create that's who I am. Ideas come to me, fabric is purchased or chosen from the collection, a pattern picked and I make garments come to life. Various factors have squelched my creativity but I'm reclaiming it with both hands and leaning into it. Because this IS who I really am.

Pattern:


I'm using Simplicity 8687 again. This will be my fourth version although it wasn't a very popular pattern in the sewing community.  PatternReview only has 7 reviews of it.  The hashtag on Instagram has 13 photos under the hashtag...and several of them are of my toppers. I think I saw something in the line drawings that no one else did.  I've also used very distinctive fabrics to make the jacket pattern sing which definitely changes the finished garment's appearance.

Fabric:

I purchased 4 yards of 55" wide lightweight cotton corduroy border print for this project. While I only needed 3 yards to make this topper, I like an extra yard of fabric to match the border print across the seams. I believe this is necessary for a good border print match.  Trying to be stingy with layout on fabric hurts the look you're trying to achieve.

Notions:

In my sunflower version I bound the hem facing and the hem with bias binding. I'd really like to do the same for this version. I also want to add green buttons for the jacket front.

Construction:

When I tried on the sunflower version, I can close it but my extra weight gain the last few years makes it a snug fit.  Not an obnoxiously too tight fit but I wanted the slightly looser fit of the originally sewn jacket. To achieve this I decided to cut the lower back pattern piece out with a 2.5" pleat.  This gives me the added space I need by adding a cool design feature.

The back and collar pieces are the only pattern pieces I cut on the fold.  Here are a few photos of the cutting out process. 

Cutting out the jacket fronts using a single layer of fabric


Jacket front pieces laying side by side

A few other things to note:

- Corduroy has a nap.  While I cut the pieces on the wide width I made sure the tops of the pattern pieces all faced one direction.  This was so the nap ran the same way on all of the pieces.

- Always, always, always purchase at least an extra yard or extra panel when working with border prints and panels.  It allows you room to experiment, match borders across all the sides and even recut if there is an error.

I'm well into constructing and making some design and trim options for the jacket.  That will be in the next post.


...as always more later!





2023 - The Year in Review

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I haven't posted much this year because I haven't sewn much this year.  I haven't even purchased a lot of fabric...probably the first year in a long time that I haven't worried about my yardage in/yardage out counts. I just haven't had a great desire to sew or a need.  Years and years of sewing so many garments have paid off with a very full wardrobe.

So what did I make this year?


I started the year with my last make as a Janome Maker.  It's the Athena Blouse made from quilting jelly rolls. Read about it here.

The other items are...


My first Hope Dress which I made as a Funeral Dress and sadly wore twice this year for that reason.

McCalls 7969 in a black and white border print.

A MimiG Katie tunic in a Julia Allison Cost bold sunflower print.


Two Knit Wexford Tops from the Cashmerette Club

I had one failed Wexford top that inspired the next two.  And I have three unfinished items...The Woodland Jacket, a border print Myosotis dress, and a 1/2 finished Hope dress that I don't think I even documented here. My goal is to finish them in 2024.  The Myosotis dress just needs buttons and buttonholes.  The Woodland Jacket is halfway done so I'm sure it will be finished in time to wear this winter.  The third Hope dress is a spring/summer dress so I will bring it back out for spring/summer sewing.

That's the extent of my sewing in 2023.  Which is amazing in how few pieces it is since for years I've churned out garment after garment. However, this year I've never felt like I didn't have something to wear because my closet is very full.

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To my unbelievable honor I had two amazing things happen in the sewing community:

First a conversation with the Threads team...


Second I was named one of the Top 5 Innovators of 2023 by Sew News.


Both of these honors were unexpected.  Both definitely made me feel very seen in the Sewing Community.  Both were a culmination of years of sewing, years of sharing and years of developing relationships with other sewists.  So I thank you for ALL of you who continue to follow me and root for me in all of the rooms where these discussions take place.

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What I did do this year is READ!  
I read to hide from the issues of the world. The incidents that have sucked the creativity right out of my body because there is nowhere to escape the horrible things that we as human beings do to each other.  

So I read ALOT...at last count 240 books. I started reading a new genre - romance books. I read from a lot of the substrates and found a few that I really loved.  Contemporary Romance Novels and Dark Mafia Romance are my new jams.  I found authors that I enjoyed and read as much of their back catalogs as I could cram in this year.  More of those back catalogs will be read in 2024.  I've read some popular authors but a whole lot of less promoted authors, often times finding their books more interesting than the "popular" authors.

A few stats...





Final thoughts...
I really want to make some new crocheted lap blankets for the couch in 2024.  My grandchildren and I use them often and the originals are looking a little ragged.

I'm planning to revamp "The Sewing Room/Office" because it's junky and hard for me to sew in now. I've plans to do that this week while I'm on vacation.  The new furniture is here.  I've roped in my daughter and granddaughters because I'm hoping that by giving myself a better space it will jumpstart some of my creativity.

I will sew in 2024.  Sewing is the essence of who I am and while I haven't watered it that much this year, a seed of it still remains in me. However, I'm sure that I'm not going to turn out tens of garments anymore because that stage of my life is gone.  It will be on a need basis - both a creative and wear based need.

I will keep blogging.  I can't promise how frequently it will be. I'm not ready to stop documenting my sewing journeys even though they've become fewer and farther between.

Thank you, thank you, thank you to all of you who have followed my sewing journeys all these years.  You are appreciated more than you know.  Thank you for continuing to hang with me. 

I'm wishing you all a very happy and joyous Holiday season.  May 2024 bring you peace, joy, contentment and many hours to sew, create, craft or read!

...as always more later!














 





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