This pattern appears to be a simple silhouette with a few inserts. Let me start out by saying, yeah right! *LOL* There are 14 total pieces for the dress that includes the front and the right and left back pieces. I look at a pattern by comparing it to my TNT dress pattern because I always think of that as the basis to make any changes to a new pattern.
I started with a Vogue size 24. I can honestly say that if I hadn't had my TNT dress pattern to compare the pattern to, I would be lost. There are quite a few inches difference between Vogue 1370 and my TNT pattern...which I know fits me with the right amount of ease and the correct proportions for my body.
There were a number of alterations made to the patterns:
Changes to the front ~
1. After laying all of the patterns on top of my TNT dress front pattern (which is getting pretty worn and will need to be traced again soon) there were so many things to change. Trying to match the notches and dots on the pattern pieces, made me a little crazy, but I had to see how the dress was suppose to go together before I made any changes to the pattern pieces. It truly was a big old puzzle!
2. After getting everything laid down, I started on one side and worked my way across. I pinned the center front of the pattern pieces to the center front of my TNT dress pattern to use as a guideline and an anchor.
2. After getting everything laid down, I started on one side and worked my way across. I pinned the center front of the pattern pieces to the center front of my TNT dress pattern to use as a guideline and an anchor.
3. This dress is short. There is a 5.5" difference between the hemline of the pattern pieces and my TNT dress' hemline. At first I was going to just add it at the hemline but then I decided to use the lengthen/shorten lines and add the length proportionally. 2.5" at the lengthen/shorten lines and 3" at the hemline.
4. Thank goodness I had a plan because the alterations were really extensive all together especially on the front. It took way longer to make them than I originally thought it would. I wanted to be accurate so the final dress will fit correctly. Also, I needed to make sure that I added in all of the inches I needed without distorting the original style of the dress.
5. Changed the dart where it appeared on the original right front pattern piece to where it is on my TNT pattern. I just drew a new dart onto the pattern tissue after I'd enlarged the side seams so that they matched my own. But I didn't change the dart on the left side pattern piece ~ it fell into the same place on my TNT pattern, so I left it alone.
6. There was only one piece on the front that I didn't change - #3 the insert piece. Hopefully that won't bite me in the butt later! *LOL*
Changes to the back ~
*The changes to the back weren't quite as extensive as they were to the front. It was more making sure that the left side and right side pieces were correct and adding a few inches to the sides.
*I also used the lengthen/shorten lines to add the 5.5" to the dress back.
*There are different changes to the left and right side back patterns. One side required more changes than the other one did. There is a dart in the back left side pattern piece that I'm not transferring. I don't normally use darts in the backs of my dresses and I won't in this one either. This is a personal design choice. Another sewist may choose to use the dart. I just hate back darts pointing at my bodacious behind.
Final thoughts...
There was a lot of pattern alterations involved in taking this pattern from out of the envelope to matching the dimensions of my TNT pattern. I used a lot of tape and small pieces of tracing paper. There was so much work that I only did pattern alterations this weekend, never even turned my sewing machine on. It took time because at times I stopped to think through what I was doing and I knew that I didn't want to rush the process.
Also, when I went to pull the fabric for this garment I ran into a small challenge. I couldn't decide between the black 'n white herringbone or the black 'n white lace for the inserts. I turned to Instagram for opinions but I'll ask here too since I haven't cut anything out yet.
Here is the collage. Feel free to leave your opinion in the comments on which combo you'd choose and why.
I will let you know what I finally decide since I'll be cutting the dress and sewing it next weekend.
...as always more later!
*I also used the lengthen/shorten lines to add the 5.5" to the dress back.
*There are different changes to the left and right side back patterns. One side required more changes than the other one did. There is a dart in the back left side pattern piece that I'm not transferring. I don't normally use darts in the backs of my dresses and I won't in this one either. This is a personal design choice. Another sewist may choose to use the dart. I just hate back darts pointing at my bodacious behind.
Final thoughts...
There was a lot of pattern alterations involved in taking this pattern from out of the envelope to matching the dimensions of my TNT pattern. I used a lot of tape and small pieces of tracing paper. There was so much work that I only did pattern alterations this weekend, never even turned my sewing machine on. It took time because at times I stopped to think through what I was doing and I knew that I didn't want to rush the process.
Also, when I went to pull the fabric for this garment I ran into a small challenge. I couldn't decide between the black 'n white herringbone or the black 'n white lace for the inserts. I turned to Instagram for opinions but I'll ask here too since I haven't cut anything out yet.
Here is the collage. Feel free to leave your opinion in the comments on which combo you'd choose and why.
Top left - black double wool crepe and herringbone
Bottom right - black double wool crepe and lace
I will let you know what I finally decide since I'll be cutting the dress and sewing it next weekend.
...as always more later!