September 29, 2018, 8:12 am
Folks I'm up relatively early this morning cause I have a hot project on the sewing machine! I've pulled a winner for The Smuggler's Daughter $100 gift card. BTW, you had a one in 116 chance of winning...and that winner is:
#7 - CarlaF in Atlanta
Carla - Congratulations! Please send me your email address or DM it to me on Instagram and I will get it to Susan at The Smuggler's Daughter.
There is one more gift card giveaway tomorrow from Fabric Mart! So check back then because the giveaway time frame is shorter this week. Sunday through Thursday with the winner announced on Friday, October 5th.
Happy National Sewing Month!
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September 29, 2018, 9:00 pm
The final gift card giveaway for this month is from Fabric Mart...
I don't even have to tell y'all how much I love Fabric Mart...it would just be redundant. Honestly about 90% of my fabric collection is from Fabric Mart - so that's shelves and shelves of fabric I've purchased from them.
Why you may ask?
Let me count the reasons for you:First - reasonable pricesSecond - amazing salesThird - awesome selection of high quality fabricsFourth - fantastic customer service both online and instore
Is that enough for you? Do you need more? Okay I'm stopping there because honestly I love Fabric Mart and hopefully you do too.
A few outfits ~
My TNT shirt
The first Katie dress
A pair of wide legged pants with tuxedo stripe
A glen plaid wool vest
This is just from the last couple of months...and I'm sure there will be more before the winter is over!
Now that the fashion show is over, I know you wanna know what the gift card offer is, right?! Well for the National Sewing Month Celebration, Fabric Mart is offering one lucky winner a $50 gift card.
How do you win this gift card?1. You must leave a comment in the box below. Remember only comments left on this post on blogger will be acceptable for the giveaway. Comments left anywhere else will NOT be eligible.
2. You must leave the comment by Thursday, October 4th by 11:59pm EST.
3. All comments must be signed - if you use "Unknown" to comment you have to leave your name or email address.
4. Fabric Mart only ships to the US, Canada and Australia - so please only leave a comment if you're eligible to have goods shipped to you.
All of these rules MUST be followed to be eligible to win the gift card. A winner will be announced on Friday, October 5th. You will have until Wednesday, October 10th to send me an email. If I don't hear from you by then, I will pick another winner. Also, please refer to the rules that were stated in the initial post for National Sewing Month.
This is the last giveaway celebrating National Sewing Month. Ready, set, comment and Good Luck!
HAPPY NATIONAL SEWING MONTH!
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I borrowed that title from a Draper James ad - my new RTW obsession! See I've been thinking about what I want to sew for fall because it is getting chillier here. In the last couple of years, I've bought about 15 pairs of jeans and another 10 pairs of leggings in ponte, pleather and a thicker knit. So my bottom situation is solved...and no I probably won't be making jeans this fall/winter.
However, I'm still fascinated with shirts and blouses so I know I will be adding more of them to my wardrobe. Especially since I love the process of making a shirt.
I've also become enamored of this Nancy Zieman shirt...
I can imagine some amazing new shirts made from scraps of other shirting fabrics (I'm accumulating a collection) or by manipulating stripes and prints to get some great new shirts for fall.
There are also a few toppers on my list. I have three patterns pulled that I want to work with and will share more as they come up in the queue. I didn't make any cardigans last fall/winter and want to add a couple to my wardrobe. There's loads of sweater fabric in the collection and I want to use some of it this year. Also, some of my cardis are starting to look old & worn so it will be time to move them out of the wardrobe. A cardi, a shirt and jeans was last winter's go-to look.
As far as I can tell, my fall/winter sewing will be all about the separates. I have a list (a short one for a change! LOL!) that I will be working from using TNT patterns and fabric to make the pieces interesting. I even want to use some dyeing and fabric manipulation techniques this year.
Fabric In/Out Totals ~Well September started out being a good month. I used 12 yards of fabric to make 4 garments. I gave away 56.25 yards of fabric so my total out for the month was 68.25 yards.
Then I got an email from Fabric Mart for Premium Members and fell down that rabbit hole - 9 yards of chambray tencil showed up. Work has been challenging this month (as well as that whole Supreme Court Justice circus) and another 12 yards showed up from StyleMaker Fabrics.
This leaves me with 68.25 yards out and 21 yards in with a YTD out total of 191.25. While this number seems high, I don't really feel like I'm winning here! *LOL* Gotta remember not to stress fabric shop though it's definitely better than stress eating!
Next up ~I feel like I've figured out who I want to be for this final stage of my working life and my sewing can now reflect that. I will be sharing a couple of garments that were finished in September next on the blog.
BTW, tomorrow is the last day to leave a comment on the last post to win the $50 gift card from Fabric Mart. If you're interested in winning some free fabric, leave a comment!
...always more later!
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Even though it's October and National Sewing Month is over, I would like to thank all of the online fabric stores for supplying the gift cards this month! I'm truly grateful that you were willing to participate in the giveaways.
I'd also like to thank everyone who left a comment for each of the giveaways. Every comment was read and noted and I'm appreciative that you took the time to leave them.
One more note before announcing the last winner...CarlaF from Atlanta I still haven't heard from you. If you don't contact me by tomorrow, I will pick a new winner for the Smugglers Daughter $100 gift card.
Now for the winner of the Fabric Mart gift card...
#42 - MaryEllen
Please contact me at my email address in the about me section and I will forward your information to Fabric Mart.
Again, thank you to everyone who participated. Regular blog posts will resume on Sunday.
...as always more later!
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Or as a subtext, "Its all about the fabric!" Now I know...I know I'm running this pattern into the ground. Seriously though it is one of the most comfortable garments I've made this season. I love it's flexibility. How it can be a top, tunic or a dress. I LOVE how it wears. It's comfortable yet stylish. I can use a variety of fabrics to make it, as evidenced by the Telio pebble crepe for this version.
Here is the latest one...
...and there will be one more made from some denim I picked up at JoAnn's of all places. I will probably retire the pattern after the denim top. Though I'm sure I will bring it out next spring to make a few more!
So let's discuss this version...
Supply List ~3 yards of pebble polyester crepe purchased earlier this summer from fabric.com10 1/2" white/beige buttons from the collectionLtwt fusible interfacing from Steinlauf & StoellerPattern Alterations ~I removed all of the additions I made to the pattern by folding them up and pinning them down. I wanted to keep them for future renditions of the pattern.
Construction Changes ~1. The hemline:For this version because the fabric is so lightweight, I didn't want the large hembands. So I sewed them onto the hemline and then cut them the facing in half. That was folded and machine stitched down. It did add to the weight of the hemline without overpowering it.
2. Long sleeves with cuffs:I used the sleeves from this Katie and the cuffs from my TNT shirt pattern. However, when I finished the shirt and tried it on the cuffs were really large. So I put a pleat on the cuff and sewed a button on each one. This worked like a charm and my skinny wrists no longer float inside the cuffs.
Those are the only construction changes made to this version.
A few pictures ~
These were taken at my job because I broke my rule and wore it to work before photographing. But I wanted something new to wear to our company meetings! This was me talking when we had to introduce ourselves.
Conclusion ~Making this from a drapier poly type fabric totally changed the look and hang of the tunic. I also added long sleeves making it a colorful piece for my fall wardrobe.
Next up on the blog is a new blouse pattern I'm trying out...well actually its a vintage pattern that I've had for awhile but I love the silhouette.
One More Thing ~Since I haven't heard from CarlaF - I pulled another number for the winner of the $100 Smugglers Daughter gift card - #30 Whitney Luckenbill! Please contact me by Wednesday, October 10th!
...as always more later!
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I found this blouse pattern in one of the online vintage pattern shops a few years ago. I was looking for a soft 80's type blouse and this one fit the bill.
I bought it for my old corporate lifestyle to go over a skirt or pair of trousers and under a cardigan. While I liked the pattern, once that lifestyle disappeared I wasn't sure I would be able to use it. Though I wasn't ready to part with it.
Background Information ~First a little about the pattern ~ the copyright date is 2001. The pattern description says, "Loose-fitting, above-hip length blouse (may be worn tucked in or out) has front-button closing and short sleeves. The back I'm using has a pleat into back yokes and shawl collar."
This pattern has no darts which I will admit had me a little concerned. Also, it's not as loose-fitting as the pattern envelope's picture. Finally let's not forget that kinda lowish (BurdaStyle) neckline. That's why I did something I don't normally do, I made a wearable muslin.
Supplies ~- A poly print from the collection that has no tag so I have no idea how long it's been there- silk organza for the interfacing- blue & white shell buttons from the button collection
Pattern Alterations ~To add width to the hemline on the front piece, I slit the front stitching line and added 1.75" of space there.
After making the blouse, I went back and added the insert from the bust point to the hemline.
To the back piece I did a pivot and slide and added 4" to the hemline. I did the pivot and slide on the fabric. Then went back and added the alteration to the pattern, after I knew it worked.
For the sleeve, I slit it up to the sleeve cap and added 1" to the bicep. Then I added 5" to the length. It was the perfect length to add a hem of 3" and then turn up a 2" cuff.
I shortened the shoulder seam by 1" for my narrower shoulders on the front and back yoke pattern pieces.
Construction ~I constructed the blouse just like the pattern instructions stated. The only thing I didn't do was handstitch the front down, however, I did handstitch the back neckline down.
I also added topstitching on the outer collar, down the front and around the hemline.
As I mentioned in the pattern alterations, my sleeves were cut longer than the pattern instructions and I added a 2" cuff to them. I wanted to give the blouse a sporty look with the cuffs.
A few pictures ~
Blouse shown with TNT linen pants
Conclusion ~This is a pretty good wearable muslin. I think I still need another inch in the the abdomen and hip area for me to be comfortable wearing this as a closed front blouse. I also want to make it about 2" longer - more thigh length. This version comes across as a camp shirt. Once all of the changes were made to the pattern, I wanted to use it with a navy double silk chiffon to make the top and a pair of pants...sort of a jumpsuit look without the jumpsuit all in oneness.
I won't get to this now that the chill is settling in. I have another version of this blouse with longer sleeves and a cuff roaming around in my brain. I want to make it this fall now I have all of the fitting challenges worked out.
Me and Samantha who started Pre-K4 this September
Next up on the blog will be a new fall shirt!
...as always more later!
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October 13, 2018, 9:00 pm
It's October and while the month kicked off with some warm late summer type weather, we all know the dark days of winter are coming. Now while I'm no longer wearing my lightweight summer clothing, it's not yet time to bundle up in the wool and cashmere.
It is shirt wearing season though...so this is my first fall shirt. I used the close fitting version of my TNT pattern.
Some stats ~Fabric:100% cotton from Zooks in Lancaster, PA
Notions:Rick Rack from Home Sew via the collection12 4-hole 1/2" white buttons from the collectionLight Crisp Shirting Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply
Additional Info ~There are no new construction techniques for this make. The difference with this one is the embellishment I added. I'm a fan of rick rack and I added it to the collar, left front button placket and in the back yoke seam. I've used it on a number of garments and think it can be used in adult garments as well as children's no problem.
While I'll make various versions of this TNT pattern this fall/winter, it will be the fabric, the embellishment and trims, I use to make each one different. I'll be documenting them here because this is my diary/record of my makes. It's a great place to keep a photo of each one. Long after they've been discarded or donated, I have a record that I made it. It's one of the things I love about my blog.
Pictures ~
I added a little rick rack to the back yoke too
Conclusion ~This is the first one of my shirts for fall/winter. However, I do have a few other shirt patterns I'm planning on using. I'm loving this one though, due to the fabric and color. Perfect for the weather we're having now and easy to wear.
...as always more later!
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October 16, 2018, 9:00 pm
Shirts are my jam. I REALLY love sewing and wearing them. They've become my new "dress" and since I run a pattern into the ground...you know I'm sewing shirts with my TNT shirt pattern.
Backstory ~I've been on a fabric buying binge. I've been using fabric to self medicate against the cares of the world. To slow down my fabric buying tendencies, I'd set myself monthly yardage limitages. Well in the last couple of weeks, I've purchased my fabric limit for October and November. The only good thing is that the purchases have totally inspired my makes for the next couple of weeks.
It started with this Rifle & Co. border print from Stylemaker Fabrics ~
...which I'm sorry to say is no longer on the website. However, this seems to be a pretty popular print so I'm sure if you google it, you can find it on another site.
Then I bought these cotton border prints from Fabric Mart ~
...as of now two of the fabrics are still on the site here and here. The other two are sold out.
With these border prints in hand, I realized I could make some really interesting shirts by manipulating the border prints. Since I own four prints a series was born. I mean the challenge of using the border prints creatively just made me salivate. I spent a couple of days during the weekend working on cutting out these prints.
So why this post? It will probably be a couple of weeks before these shirts make it to the blog. By then the last of the cotton border prints will be sold out, just wanted to give you an opportunity to purchase some of these fabrics yourself. Also, to let you know what I'm sewing next.
Next completed garment up on the blog is the Simplicity 8700 jacket. I've been working on it for a couple of weeks and I think it's ready for prime time now.
...as always more later!
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October 21, 2018, 6:02 pm
When the air gets crisp and it's chilly in the morning, my thoughts turn to jackets. I'm not really a coat maker but a cute jacket is right up my alley.
I've made a few in the last couple of years that I've enjoyed wearing. So when I saw this Simplicity pattern...
I knew I wanted to add it to my collection. But me being me, I was going all in to get the look I saw in my head. There are loads of photos and information in this post. So if you're not interested in the design and construction information, skip down to the photos and conclusion to see the finished jacket.
Supply List ~1. Medium weight star denim fabric from the collection by way of Fabric Mart2. Black 'n white stripe remnant - used in this shirt3. 7 - 7/8" buttons from the button collection4. 2 - 1/2" buttons from the button collection5. 1 - 1" O ring from Lauren Trimmings6. 2 - 2" O rings from Lauren Trimmings7. Pieces of 1" black twill tape from the notions stash8. 7 yds of smoky black bias binding from Pacific Trimmings9. Black topstitching thread from SIL Thread
Pattern Alterations ~Let me state that this pattern only goes up to an XL with a bust measurement of 46" and waist of 48". There's no hip measurement on the outside of the pattern envelope...but when I measured the pattern pieces it was 58" before the seam allowances were taken off. I knew I would have to alter the main pattern pieces to fit around my hips.
I made my alterations to the front and back piece...in the sides between the large and extra large cutting lines...slashing and spreading so that I ended up with 1.5" at the hemline on each side.
Besides the side alterations for the back piece, I also did a pivot and slide of 2" on the fabric prior to cutting it out.
There was no need to make an adjustment to the sleeve pattern because it was wide enough. It means that my version won't have the loose sleeve look of the pattern envelope but I'm good with that.
The final pattern alteration was regarding the front facing piece. Brittany mentioned it in her review so I knew to look out for the issue. To solve the problem, I drafted a back neck facing. so that the collar would be enclosed in facings which means I did NOT apply it as the pattern states.
I made a back neck facing by using the back yoke piece. I measured the width of the facing piece. Then I used my curved ruler to make the facing bottom deeper. Here is a pic of it before I traced it off onto pattern paper...
Then I omitted the back yoke. Yeap, went my own way. It's a stretch denim jacket and I thought it just didn't need it. One of my reasons was the weight of the denim and some of it was the look I wanted. This is what my collar looks like with the front facing.
Design Changes ~I acknowledge that I went overboard with my design changes. I threw everything into this jacket except for the kitchen sink. I may not have hacked the pattern much but I did hack the design!
My first thought when I saw the pattern was to add some O rings to the flaps. I saw this on a dress on Monica's Instagram account and I really liked the look. I'd been waiting for a garment to add that O ring accent to. I thought this jacket was perfect for it. So I added the rings to all of the pockets.
The second design change I made was to use leftover shirting materials from this shirt for my facings, under flaps and the shoulder tabs.
As pocket linings
For the tabs
The third change was to add binding everywhere to give this very busy print boundaries. So it was added to the collar, inserted into the sleeve band hems and down the front of the jacket. I also used it to bind the seams and hemline of the jacket.
The last thing was a "by chance" thing. I ordered some new labels from Dutch Label Shop. I wanted a label that better reflected where I am now in my creative journey. This label is designed to look like my blog header. After I sewed it onto the upper pocket flap, I thought it was perfect.
While I really like my design changes, they added considerable sewing time to this make...considerable time!
Construction Information ~I read the pattern instructions and then proceeded to sew the jacket in the order I wanted after the basic assembly was done. Most of my construction changes were sewn with the pieces flat.
A few things I want to note:- I basted the sides together to check fit ~ once I realized the fit was okay ~ took it apart and added the pocket flaps. I didn't want to do all of the extra work for the pockets if the jacket didn't fit.- One of the suggestions that the pattern makes is adding twill tabs to the pocket flaps. The O rings were my design decision although I don't think they stand out as much as I thought they would.- Binding isn't suggested in the pattern instructions. That was all me trying to contain the fabric print a little. I'm glad I added it and used a hong kong type of finishing to attach it. However, adding it to the front really defined the button area and gave more definition to the jacket front.- There's a lot of topstitching on ERRYTHING! From the tabs on the shoulders to the sleeves and hems. Everything is topstitched.- The cuffs were way too large on my jacket. So I did my normal trick of making a pleat and adding a button.Original cuff - topstitched with bias binding
Cuff with pleat added
A few pictures ~
Conclusion ~This is one of Simplicity's "Pattern Hacking" patterns so it comes with several options to make the jacket. You can make it as simple as possible or you can go full in and add everything the pattern suggests and then a few of your own designs. As explained above, I went all in. LOL!
You would have thought that I'd have been realistic about the amount of time it would take to sew this jacket especially since I put every design detail into it. But no...about halfway through the construction I got annoyed! *LOL* When I finally thought about it I realized that it takes time to get a more detailed garment made. I needed the time to bring to fruition all the things I saw in my head. When I understood that the sewing became more enjoyable. Does this happen to anyone else? Just wondering if I'm standing on this creative cliff alone?
I will be using this pattern again. I can see it in different fabrics with less of the details I used in this one. Hopefully I will get more of them made before spring shows up because I always think I have more time to sew than I actually do! *LOL*
One other thing happened after I took the photos. My Mother saw me standing in the kitchen with the jacket on and asked where I bought it. I think that's the ultimate sewists compliment!
The first shirt from the border print series is up next on the blog.
...as always more later!
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October 23, 2018, 3:00 pm
I am really honored and thrilled that I'm featured this week on the Love to Sew Podcast.
It was a really interesting conversation. Especially since it's hit me this year that I've been sewing almost 50 years. I think I even said several times during the conversation, I'm old! But it's not in a negative "ohmygodI'msoold" way but more in a celebration of the fact that I've lived this long. That I'm in relatively good health and will probably live a couple more decades sewing until the very end.
Anyway, if you get a chance, check out the podcast here. If you haven't listened to any of the other podcasts (really why not?) check out some of the other interviews and discussions. Caroline (proprieter of Blackbird Fabrics) and Helen (designer of Helen's Closet Patterns) have a variety of sewing discussions, as well as, interviews with sewing entrepreneurs and sewing bloggers. Check them out because I'm sure there is someone or something you want to know more about.
Okay back to normal sewing journeys and conversations!
...as always more later!
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October 25, 2018, 9:00 pm
I know Rifle & Co prints are big - HUGE! Quite a few sewists have made some beautiful garments using fabric from this line. While I like the prints I've seen, I've never felt like I NEEDED to own one...well not until I saw this one on Stylemaker Fabrics site. I was honestly bowled over by the border print which is how this shirt came to be.
There is nothing new in the construction of this shirt. I used my close-fitting TNT shirt pattern with the shirt tail hemline for this version. Initially I was going to use the TNT shirt with the gathered back. However, after thinking about it, the border print would be more impactful in the closer fitting shirt. So that's what I did.
I'd like to discuss one thing I do in making my shirts regarding the button bands. On some shirts I use the foldover button bands. On others, I've cut it off and replaced the band with a sewn on band.
What I'm saying is that I don't interface this band whether it's folded over or sewn on. Recently there was a popular sewist on Instagram saying that you had to add interfacing to the band, that the three layers of fabric was insufficient.
I've made over a dozen shirts now using this fold & turn method and never had a problem with buttonholes being wonky or the buttons not being stable on my shirts. So why did I bring this up? Because there are several ways to sew things and no one way is always the "right" way. Try out a couple of techniques and see which one works for you. Then use what works for you.Materials Used ~4 yards Rifle & Co Empire Garden cotton border printInterfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller10 1/2" 2-hole navy blue buttons from my button collection
Design Details ~First I've used border prints before. I really like working with them and collect them whenever I find them. Here's a blog post I've written about sewing with border prints.
This shirt has no exceptional use of the border print but I didn't believe it needed any. This is a bold print that uses a large portion of the fabric. My decision was how to make the print work best for me. So the body of the print is along the bottom and mid-body for this shirt.
The sleeves and back yoke were cut from the starry portion of the fabric.
Collar, cuffs and the inner back yoke were cut from the border print.
This allowed the shirt to showcase the border print with the maximum effect. A few pictures ~
Conclusion ~This is the first shirt completed in the border print shirt series. I have a few more left to make before the series is done. Next up is a cotton sateen border print shirt made from the Fabric Mart fabric haul recently purchased.
...as always more later!
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October 28, 2018, 3:00 am
Fabric Mart put up a bunch of cotton border prints in September and I bought four of them. I knew as I was purchasing them that I wanted shirts from them. Because when was the last time you saw a cool border print shirt in RTW? I can't remember if I ever saw one! Ah the joys of sewing for yourself!
Supply List ~TNT princess seamed/back yoke shirt pattern
Fabric: 100% cotton sateen border print
Notions:Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller1/2" plastic floral buttons purchased from Pacific Trimmings
1" white bias binding purchased from Pacific Trimmings
Some Construction Thoughts ~I think of this as a happy shirt because the fabric makes it so! Normally border prints are used with the print on the bottom, like my previous shirt. This time I used the border print for the main body of the shirt since it covered more of the fabric. The white from the top of the border print was used for the collar, collar stand, button bands and the cuffs.
To cut out the fabric, I used a single pattern layout which means the fabric was cut with the stretch going up and down the body. However, for the sleeves I wanted the stretch to go around my arms. So the sleeves were cut on grain with the stretch around the arms. This is important with my bodacious biceps and a mistake I made with a previous border print shirt make.
Another point to mention is that the fabric is a mid-to-heavyweight cotton sateen. This is not shirting fabric BUT it's perfect for our cold winters. I will add an additional layer of warmth with either a long sleeve tee or turtleneck underneath the shirt. Making it will be perfect for winter wearing.
The hem is bound with the white bias binding to carry the white theme throughout the garment.
I did get to a point in the construction where I was ectastic with how the garment was sewing up! One because the shirt was turning out the way I imagined it.
Two even though some parts of the construction was tedious and slow going, the results were so worth it! Making this shirt was all about slow sewing.
So a few pictures ~
This is the second shirt in "The Border Print Shirt" series. Two down and three more to go! If you like the silhouette of my TNT shirt pattern, here are a few suggestions for current patterns you can use to make your own shirt ~ Grainline Studio Archer shirt, Cashmerette Harrison shirt, Butterick 5526, McCalls 7575, Vogue 9029, Vogue 8689, Hotpatterns Classic Nouveau Great White Shirt, to name a few. I'm sure there are more out there in Indie land that could be used too.
Personally, I have four shirt patterns that I will be using this fall/winter. Two are TNTs and two will be new pattern sews. My advice is to find a pattern that works for you and sew it a couple times. Make it a TNT pattern that you can use whenever you want a new shirt. As I've said before a TNT pattern allows me to play with fabric, techniques or manipulating both. I like to play. It's the main reason I sew!
One thing to note ~ this month is/was National Domestic Violence Month. Purple is the color associated with the month and as a survivor of Domestic Abuse I'm thrilled that I got this shirt made in time to celebrate the month. Even though it's more lavender than purple, I think it counts. Learn more about National Domestic Violence month here.
Next up on the blog after the month in review, will be a Rivermont Top. I've had this top in my mind since the beginning of the year. I finally got it out of my creative brain and sewn up...
...as always more later!
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October 30, 2018, 9:00 pm
I don't know about you but October just flew by! Flew! However, it was a good sewing month for me.
I posted six garments. Two were made in September and four in October. I still have another one to share with you...rolling it over into November. October was a good sewing month!
My fabric in and out totals for October are ~Fabric in:26.5 yards (15 yds from Fabric Mart, 6 yds from Blackbird Fabrics, 5.5 yds from Mood)
Fabric out:17.5 yards out for 3 shirts, 1 top and 1 jkt.
Year to Date totals: I ended up with 9 more yards in than out this month. Which makes my YTD out total: 194.25 yds
Again, while it seems impressive it wouldn't be if I hadn't given away so much fabric. I still need to sew more from what I have than of dreaming of garments with new fabric. That will be a challenge for 2019.
Love to Sew Podcast ~Another wonderful thing that happened this month was my interview on the Love to Sew podcast. If you haven't had a chance to listen to it yet, it's available here or you can download it on iTunes.
Some Random Sewing Thoughts ~I'm always wondering lately how much to post to both my blog and Instagram about the state of the affairs in the world. I don't want to be have one of those pretty Instagram accounts that just reflect my sewing. I'm much more interested in having an IG account that reflects me - that's authentically me!
I've been thinking about my style some more...definitely brought about by the questions asked of me on the Love to Sew podcast. I think I have a better description. I'm Stylishly Comfortable. I use to be "Corporate Chic with a Designer Flare" but these days I've traded heels for sneakers. Dresses for shirts and jeans and I rarely wear my collection of pearl jewelry sets anymore. Though my co-worker did say I'm rather well accessorized.
I'm never going to stop buying fabric. I have a problem and it's not gonna change. If I'm honest, I really like buying and having a lot of fabric around just need to set some boundaries...okay I might have said that twice in this post.
I was looking for how to insert an invisible zipper on my blog cause I've been sewing buttonholes and buttons so much lately, I got lost! Seriously! Anyway, one of the posts I checked out was from June 2010 and it featured this dress:
The post was called Museum Inspired. Its made from two knit panels that I purchased from Fabric Mart. I'm thinking I'm going to share pieces from older posts once a month. Things that everyone can remember I've sewn. Especially since I have a treasure trove of garments on the blog that many newer readers have never seen and no longer live in my wardrobe.
Well only two more months and its twenty nineteen. I have a few things I want to sew for November. Trying to decide if I'm going to do any Christmas sewing this year. However, I will be off work from Saturday, December 22nd through Sunday, January 6th, 2019 for some serious sewing time. I have a few personal things to do but I will be sewing.
...as always more later!
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November 4, 2018, 2:00 pm
This is the third shirt in the "Border Print Series." I added it to the series because of the mix of gingham fabrics and the fussy cutting needed to make the shirt work...
Let's start with the Inspiration photo that jumped this shirt off for me...
I've held onto this photo since spring because I love the play of the larger versus smaller gingham. I'm grouping it with the other border print shirts because of the fabric manipulation required to make the shirt work. To get the look there were bias pieces cut out as well as the front and backs being singly cut in the same manner I cut a border print. That's how this shirt gained a place in this series.
Here is my supply list ~
Fabric:Both gingham fabrics are from StyleMaker Fabrics. I chose to make mine from navy & white but other color combinations are available here.
Notions:1/2" 2-hole white buttons from Pacific TrimmingsInterfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
Construction ~As I mentioned above, cutting out was the most important part of making the shirt work, especially since this version of my TNT pattern has princess seams. For this shirt, I went back to the straight hem of previous shirts. I know my inspiration pic shows the curved sides but I was ready for something else.
I also omitted the bands with buttonholes and buttons on the sleeves. My sleeves have a sewn on cuff.
Using the straight hem made it easier to match the plaid across the seams of the shirt.
For the back yoke, I cut the fabric on the bias and added a seam to get the chevroned pattern. I like the detail but honestly I did it so I wouldn't have to match the plaid of the back yoke to the shirt back bottom.
Buttons on the front are white 2-hole shirt buttons which are smaller than buttons I normally use. Because of that I added more of them down the front of the shirt. When stitching them to the button band, I had to use tape to hold them down so they wouldn't move around. So thank you to whomever left that tip in the comments.
A Few Pictures ~
Conclusion ~I took a couple of months to acquire the fabric I needed to make this shirt. I'm glad I was able to get a combo I liked. It was the challenge of manipulating the fabric and making the plaid match all the way around the shirt that was the intriguing part for me. So while this is not "technically" a border print, the extra work to make it happen is why it's in the series.
...always more later!
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November 7, 2018, 8:11 pm
I must have a thing about Sew Camp at Carriage Corner in March because I've been the last two years and will be going again next year!
Registration just opened for the March 22-24, 2019 weekend of Sew Camp. If you're interested in spending a weekend with like-minded sewists doing the thing we love most - then contact Gaylen at hello@carriagecornerbandb.com for information on room rates and details.
Just to remind you why you should come ~
Friday is shopping at the bricks and morter store of Fabric Mart:
From March 2018
From March 2017 - I think I'm taking the picture in this one
After lunch at a local cafe we head back to the B&B for dinner and sewing as long as you want...
Sewing is all day Saturday and Sunday until around 5pm...
I can tell you that it is one of the best sewing weekends I have! It's probably why I and several others return year after year. I mean fabric shopping at one of my fave fabric spots, all sewing conversation for three days and sewing, sewing and more sewing! Yeah count me in! I hope you'll join me there!
...as always more later!
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November 17, 2018, 6:33 pm
Do you cut out a pile of garments to be sewn and then sew from the pile?
It was something I tried back in my early 20s. I cut out a large pile of garments. Before I got to the bottom of the pile, I was totally turned off and didn't want to sew the garments. It probably didn't help that I did it during the summer when I was working. By fall I had to change living arrangements and my job so the things I cut had lost their appeal.
Fabric & patterns were more precious to me then (having less disposable income) so I was majorly disappointed when the fabric sat unused and eventually got thrown away because I was no longer that size.
I developed a policy never to cut out piles of garments again. Basically I've lived the cut one, sew one policy for decades. However, earlier this summer, I cut out four projects and managed to sew my way through all of them. I was bitchin' by the end of the pile but I did get them all sewn.
It made me look at and think about my sewing differently. See I always have sooooooo many projects on my to-sew list. Then there are the ideas that float in and out that never make it to my list but tickle me creatively. A couple of weeks ago I was drowning in sewing ideas. There were so many projects demanding my attention. I needed to do something more about it then just write them on a list.
So one evening I headed to the sewing cave and pulled fabric and placed them with patterns. The next evening I pulled notions and trims to go with each project. Even making a list of a few items that I needed to purchase from Pacific Trimmings. Though in actuality, after searching the notions stash, I found everything but two things which made me happy...so very happy that I'd shopped the stash first.
Now that I'm working in the garment district again, I find it's so easy to head to M&J or Joyce Trimmings or Pacific Trimmings that I'm neglecting the very LARGE notions stash I own. I'm glad I looked before I bought this time!
Then I started cutting. Most of what I'd paired with fabric was TNT patterns...items I'd sewn before with success. Each cut garment was paired with it's notion and pattern, then piled on the cutting table. I'm presently sewing my way through the pile. Instead of the angst I thought I would feel so far I'm not bored with the pile. Then again I'm still in the beginning stages of sewing the pile so we will see how I feel as I near the bottom of it. Though I am encouraged since I'm only working Monday of Thanksgiving Week and then it's four weeks until Christmas Break, so I have plenty of sewing time coming up.
This brings me to my "Question of the Day." Do you pre-cut piles of fabric/garments to sew? If you do, how many do you cut at a time? Do you do it seasonally? Have you been successful with this type of sewing? Also, do you worry about ending up with UFO's? If you don't, why not? Do you have the same concerns I use to have? Or do you just prefer the one off sewing?
This is the Question of the Day, so talk back to me. I'm really interested in hearing your answers to the questions. Oh and here is a good place to say, that I understand why you read my blog on a reader (i.e. bloglovin') but I don't check my account there often, so if you leave a comment or ask a question I probably won't see it.
There are finished garments up next on the blog because pics are being taken tomorrow.
...as always more later!
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November 25, 2018, 3:30 pm
I'm always looking for toppers that will work with my casual lifestyle. Now while I'm drawn to very tailored jackets, realistically they don't fit into my work life. So when I saw this McCalls pattern in the fall offerings, I thought it would fit well in my wardrobe...
Even though this pattern has several sleeve variations, I'm sticking with the kimono type sleeves because I like simplier silhouettes. Refer to my sentence above about tailored jackets. I really am a classic silhouette loving sewist who likes bright colors and prints. This pattern gives me a great layering piece, which I need for the winter. It's simple, classic and stylish.
Supply List ~Blue/Black Jacquard from Elliott Berman Fabrics12 yds black bias binding from Pacific Trimmings1 small snap
Pattern Alterations ~- The shoulder seams were shortened by an inch - Did a pivot and slide to add 3" at the hemline and 2" at the hip area- Added inseam pockets from McCalls 7481 Construction Info ~This is a simple sew and it goes together quickly. There are four pattern pieces - back, front, sleeve and sash. The time consuming element is the bias binding...and that's what drew me to the pattern.
I did add some time to the construction by adding pockets after I sewn the side seams. So everything had to be ripped open and sewn again. Because I used big and deep pockets, I had to hand stitch them to the jacket front so they wouldn't flop around inside the jacket.
The bias binding was applied using the Hong Kong method. The pattern tells you to fold it in half and sew it down. I wanted a cleaner look. Applying it using the Hong Kong application means that the bias is longer on the inside. Stitching in the ditch causes it to have a more finished look on the jacket front.
I also added some ribbon ties from the bias binding to the side of and the front of the jacket to tie it together. I wanted to insure that the belt wasn't the only thing holding the jacket together.
A snap was sewn to the v-neck junction at the front of the jacket. This helps the v-neckline to lay flat. To me all of these additions enhance the wearability of the jacket.
After I added the snaps I noticed that the left side hangs a little lower than the right. I was going to fix it but I like the quirkiness of it, so left it. When you're looking at the pictures below realize that the fronts not meeting is deliberate.
A Few Pictures ~
The fabric is what makes this jacket work. I suggest if you make one for yourself that you use a bold fabric (like the pattern envelope) or a denim so that the jacket is distinctive. Your bias binding can be coordinating (like mine) or contrasting to add even more pop! Also, buy more bias binding than the pattern recommends. I bought 13 yards and used 12.
This is where I tell you that Elliott Berman supplied the fabric as part of my Brand Ambassadorship with them. If you're interested in purchasing fabric similar to the one I used, check out their new french jacquards here. One more thing about the fabric, it's warm. I'm looking forward to pairing this with other turtlenecks during the cold months of January through March.
I would make this again...probably in denim. Though I will have to adjust the pattern fronts. To achieve the look on the pattern envelope, I need a little more fabric across the front. Even though I'm fine with the way this one hangs. But if I do make it again, I will definitely make the adjustments.
Even with that I highly recommend purchasing this pattern. It's a simple sew especially if you don't add all the elements I did. The finished jacket has a lot of bang for the buck and I'm sure it will get a lot of wear this winter.
...as always more later!
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November 27, 2018, 9:00 pm
I've been looking for a turtleneck pattern that I wouldn't have to do a lot of work on. The Pembroke pattern while not a true turtleneck, is close enough for me to use to make a couple of layering pieces this fall/winter.
This is a simple sew. I used the shoulder seams for size 22, bust and waist size 24 and hip size 26. The bust cup is a C/D.
The fabric is from Gaylen's fabric collection. She was going to add it to her pile of giveaway fabric for the Baltimore Destash. I rescued it instead! It's a panel border print wool knit that I used 2.5 panels for the tunic.
I added seam tape to the shoulder seams and used a double needle to sew the sleeve and bottom hems. That's the only construction information, so a few pictures.
This was my trial make. I'm going to make a couple of adjustments to the pattern (shoulder, widthwise and length) then make a few more. This top will make a great layering piece for winter and its just what I need to add to my wardrobe.
Here it is with one of my first Simplicity 8059 cardigans and how I will wear it.
This version is a great jump off for future makes. I'm sure a few more will show up here in the upcoming months!
...as always more later!
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November 29, 2018, 9:00 pm
Well the end of the year is approaching with only 31 days left. So I'm reviewing these last 30 days, my buying habits and what I made...cause November was a good sewing month for me.
The Fabric Struggle Continues...First, let's deal with my fabric piggyness ~ or my "In and Out" totals. I'd already purchased 14 yards before I added an additional 22.5 yards with my Black Friday purchases. *sigh* There are a whole lot of things I could say about that but why? We know fabric is my weakness and some months I'm better at containing the piggyness than others. The total amount of fabric in this month is 36.5 yards. DEFINITELY a month of overabundance.
The only good thing is that my out total is pretty high. Not high enough to cover the abundance but adequate. Part of the reason the output is so high is I precut five garments a couple of weeks back. I discussed that in this post. While I've only sewn three of the garments I precut, once fabric is cut it comes out of inventory...plain and simple. So my out total is 22.5 yards. Just one less purchase and I would have broken even...*sigh* There will be a post on what actually came after the last of the fabric arrives. Yes that's right...there is still more coming...
New out total for the year so far is: 208.25 yds. I know this is the amount of some peoples stashes but honestly this is just a drop in the bucket in my world. There is still an overabundance of fabric in the sewing cave. I'm not feeling like I met my goal to sew primarily from the collection but I will discuss that more in my year end post.
New Additions to the Closet...
I made six garments: - Blue Gingham Shirt - McCalls 7817 - Jacquard Jacket - Cashmerette Pembroke Turtleneck Tunic - Velvet Deer 'n Doe Dress - coming to the blog soon - Black Ponte & Lace Jacket - coming to the blog soon - Cashmerette Rivermont Top - coming to the blog soon
Next...I have two more shirts in border print fabrics cut out that are waiting to be sewn. They will definitely be on the blog next month. I will also have a lot of time to sew during December due to my Winter Break. Some of the garments I make may show up at the end of December. But I'm sure more of them will fall into January 2019 cause when I'm on a sewing tear, I just like to sew.
Anyway, it was a good sewing month and Imma take pride in that! Next up on the blog is the Velvet Deer & Doe dress.
...as always more later!
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December 1, 2018, 9:00 pm
This is a total left field make. Especially since it seems like so much of my sewing lately has become "statement sewing" instead of basics. I've reached the point in my sewing where I'm taking creative journeys instead of sewing necessary garments. I can pretty much guarantee that 2019 is going to be all about creative journeys!
Originally I purchased this fabric to make a peasant style maxi skirt. You know the kind with the gathered tiers. Since the fabric was only 45" wide I bought six yards of it. It was inexpensive because I bought it during Chic Fabrics "moving locations" sale.
It was purchased prior to making the Deer & Doe dresses. I love all three versions that I've made and each was worn several times during the summer and early fall.
When I was moving some fabric I touched this velvet and knew it needed to become a long sleeved maximized version...
Supply List ~5 yards of polyester tie dyed velvet from Chic FabricsA scrap of coca brown ponte for facingsBlk & printed piping from Joyce Trimmings5/8" 4-hole buttons from the button collectionInterfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
Construction ~1. I chose to leave the collar off this version and make it true to the pattern. I added piping to the collar edge and the front edge of the bodice.2. Ponte facings were used to add interfacing to the collar stand and front facings. That made it easier to apply the fusible interfacing and the piping.
3. I also lengthened the sleeves so they were full length. Then I added cuffs. The cuff pattern was taken from my TNT shirt pattern.
4. Care had to be taken because the velvet handles differently than other fabrics.
5. I used my needleboard and silk organza pressing cloth to press seams open & flat.
6. Typically, I use tailor tacks to mark darts and markings on garments from velvet. Though with this one I did mark with tracing paper and a tracing wheel because the fabric is crinkled and absorbed the tracing markings.
7. Used my straight stitch food and straight stitch throat plate on my sewing machine when I sewed the dress, it made sewing the seams a tad easier.
8. Also added seam tape to the shoulder seams to stabilize them since the fabric had a little give.
9. I wavered back and forth over adding piping to the sleeve cuffs. Since I had a lot of piping left (because I typically buy 5 yards at a time) I decided to have fully piped cuffs. Adding the piping to the cuff is explained in this post.
10. I thought for this one that I would make a longer cuff but it didn't work out - see below...
11. Made a shorter cuff and I handstitched the cuff to the sleeve. It's a little tight and I didn't want to squeeze it under my sewing machine needle. I think it will be okay since this dress won't be worn much. However, I'm so happy I chose to make the cuff tighter and smaller. It works perfectly with the sleeve and dress proportions.
12. I added piping to the waistline seam to take the piping all the way through the garment.
13. The last thing is that I basted the bodice and skirt together before I sewed the waistline seam. That way I could make any needed adjustments without ripping out seams in the velvet and possibly marring it.
I know there's a lot of information here but in case anyone is thinking about making a version of the dress, I hope this will help you.A few pictures ~
Conclusion ~If you've never sewn with velvet before there are a few things you should know to make the sewing journey easier. May I recommend Sandra Betzina's book, "More Fabric Savvy" for instructions and a guide on how to handle sewing with this fabric.
Cause I broke all of the rules/suggestions. - I used fusible interfacing on the cuffs. - I marked the fabric with a tracing wheel and tracing paper. - I did not use a walking foot.
However, I did baste a lot and I did cut the dress out using a "with nap" layout.
Also, this was sew slowing...some ripping out and replacing and A LOT of piping with hand basting. As with all projects I get neck deep in and start to wonder if I should have waded in with all those special touches on a difficult fabric. Then when it's done I'm almost always glad I went for it.
This dress turned out so much more luxurious than I imagined it. It's comfortable while having a "Tudors" vibe! BTW, I originally dreamed up this dress with a leather collar, collar stand and cuffs and no piping. The only reason I didn't go that way is because the two pieces of pleather in the collection, didn't match the fabric.
I have no idea where I'm going to wear this beauty. However, I'm glad I made it! Also, there will definitely be more of these added to my spring/summer wardrobe. I finally understand why some sewists made 3-4 of these right away. I will be joining their ranks next spring.
...as always more later!
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