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Black Ponte Jacket with Lace Trim

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This jacket is made using McCalls 7481 as the base and it's Chico inspired.  


I found the inspiration jacket on Chico's website and it started this sewing journey.




All of the pattern alterations were completed that's why I started with it. I have two successful versions of the jacket in my closet another reason to use it.

Supply List ~
- 2.5 yards of black ponte fabric from Fabric Mart
- 1.5" lace from Joyce Trimmings
- 3" lace from M&J Trimmings
- black 'n white bias binding from the collection via Fabric Mart
- Five 7/8" black buttons from Pacific Trimmings
- One 1 1/8" black button from WalMart

Construction ~
I made no alterations to this pattern besides choosing the length and omitting the lining.  The Chicos inspiration jacket has a mandarin collar. I decided to use the collar from the pattern. Then I made it a journey because I added lace to the collar. Being extra again...

Side seam pockets were added but they hung funny. I thought of a couple of ideas to make the pockets work but ultimately decided that I didn't need them.  So I unpicked all of that black thread on black ponte fabric. As I was doing it, I realized that I've really grown because there was a time when I would have just chucked the outfit. But my unpicking heros, Grace and Lara have convinced me that ripping is worth it. Sometimes you've just got to do it to make your design idea work.

My silk organza pressing cloth got a work out on this project. I normally don't use one on ponte fabric but since I was doing some heavy duty pressing, I didn't want to put a shine on the fabric.  It was a good decision!


The highlight of this jacket is the lace on the collar, the sleeve and jacket hemlines.


The bias binding finishing on the inside just makes my heart sing. I only had enough in the notions stash to trim out the facings and the hemline.  So the side seams are just serged. BTW, while this bias tape came on a roll, it had to be pressed into shape to be used. It's some of the leftover binding tapes I bought from Fabric Mart over a decade ago.


A Hong Kong finish was used because I love how cleanly it finishes the seams. To me its worth the extra time and effort this finishing takes. There are loads of tutorials on how to sew Hong Kong binding in a garment, just Google it. I would hate to recommend one since there are various sewists showing how the technique is done and probably one of them is a fave of yours.

A few pictures ~




Wearing it with my TNT sleeveless white 
shirt made earlier this year!

This picture illustrates why I should stand up straight!

Wearability Factor ~
I wore this to work and out to lunch with a sewing friend this week. I dressed it down with sneakers and a ponytail and even then someone at work mentioned how dressed up I looked! LOL! I'm just not winning that one. However, since I made the jacket from ponte, it was very comfortable to wear. My other two makes include an outerwear jacket and a special events jacket


Conclusion ~
This is my third version of this jacket and I still haven't made it the way it appears on the pattern envelope! I think that's why I like the pattern so much ~  because of it's possibilities. I did check on the website and this pattern is now out of print. Which is sad because it's a great pattern to take creative journeys.  The pattern is still on the website if you want one. I'd like to use this pattern to make a few more everyday jackets, so expect to see it again.

The other thing I really liked about constructing this jacket was the details. All those extra special things really made the sewing fun. This is the type of sewing that makes me happiest. I can sew a quick project but it's not what makes my creative being sing. Give me a sewing challenge, throw in as many elements as possible to end up with a cohesive and unique garment and I'm happy. I was very happy making this jacket! *LOL*

This was the last garment I made during my Thanksgiving Break and my favorite make of the bunch. It was also the most intensive. I honestly didn't think I would get it finished in time to be photographed during the last session with my daughter. I'm glad I did. 

There is one more garment left from the photos, the Rivermont Top. It will be up next. The last of the "Border Print Series" shirts will be on the blog after that. 

...as always more later!








Cashmerette's Rivermont Top - Second Version

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Last year when I made the Rivermont Top I said that I would make it again.  As usual it took me a minute to get back to it...well actually it took me an entire year! *LOL* 


I also said that I would make my next version just like the pattern...mmmmmm I lied. This one is basically made like my first version. I love high/low hemlines and really wanted another version like that. The difference in this one is that the high/low peplum is made from a polyester chiffon.

Some stats ~
Fabric:
Navy rayon/lycra ponte purchased from Mood Fabrics for this project
Polyester floral chiffon purchased from Fabric Mart

Notions:
9" navy invisible zipper
Seam tape

Construction ~
This is a simple sew. I made it exactly like I did the first one. Of course, I complicated it by using the chiffon as the high/low peplum. There were two things that changed with this make. One, I added two layers of the peplum to the front to give a little more length to the front.


The second thing is that to insure the chiffon doesn't pull from the ponte (one fabric being heavier than the other) I stitched seam tape into the waistline seam to stabilize it.  Since I used chiffon for the peplum, its unlined...another difference from my original version.

That's it. There are no other changes to the construction of the top.

Then I took pictures of the top and decided that I didn't like it with the second layer. The pictures made it look like I was wearing a tutu over a onesie. Those knit pants just weren't working for me.  So I removed that layer by just cutting it out of the seams and retook the pictures with some jeans.  That's what's pictured below.

A few pictures ~



I wanted something a little casual and funky, out of my wheelhouse. I think I accomplished that with this make. I like it better with just one layer of chiffon as the peplum and I like the swish in the back. Maybe some day I will make the top as it appears on the pattern envelope. Since this is a great pattern hopefully some day soon I will make another maximized version of the dress with a flared skirt. Something else I've been thinking about for a minute!


...as always more later!



Black Friday Fabric Purchases

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I can honestly say that this was my last big fabric buy of 2018.  I bought way more fabric than I intended. The sales were really good and I found some fabric that just wanted to come and be neighbors with the present members of the collection. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! *LOL* 

Seriously though, I'm documenting this because I want to have it as a reference for future makes. At one time, I documented almost all of my fabric purchases. It was great when I finally used the fabric to figure out when I bought it and I could point back to it in the garment post. 

Since I get to start new in 2019, I'm going to try to document all new fabric purchases. Hopefully that will make me more conscious of what I purchase especially if I'm sharing it with all of you! Famous last words I know. Anyway here is what I bought...

Sewing Studio:
I bought a black stretch corduroy and a floral chambray to make a vest and shirt combo. Honestly I haven't purchased from them since they changed owners and I wanted to try the new site out.  The sale was good - 25% off your order.  The website was easy to navigate and the shipping was FAST! If you haven't looked at their site or purchased from them lately, I highly recommend this site!

How the fabric arrives

What I purchased...


Stylemaker Fabrics:
I love Michelle's selection. I'm constantly checking it because she's set her website up so that I can check fabric by color or by type. Many times, I just click the color type I'm interested in and ramble through until I find what I need. That's how I found this latest piece. 


Its called Metropolis Cotton Lawn Navy. I bought it to go with a blue faux suede that I'd purchased from the craft store in August when I visited the Lancaster one with Gaylen. I want to make another vest/shirt combo with these. However, if you're interested in the same color/fabric combo, Michelle has a blue suede on her site too.


Fabric Mart Fabrics:
Fabric Mart always has wonderful sales so I usually skip them during Black Friday. But this year they pulled out all the stops ~ 60% off everything, 1/2 price shipping and a free gift. Then each day there was one extra discount - one day it was 30% off patterns. Thankfully, I bought fabric on Thanksgiving Day without the extra enticements! *LOL*

Entire FM haul with the free gift - about a dozen zippers

A cotton jacquard border print

Floral Cotton Sateen

Black & White Polyester Floral Crepe 

I bought the most fabric here.  A black & white polyester floral crepe, a walnut cotton oxford shirting, a cotton/jacquard floral print and a floral watercolor sateen print. These will be held for spring sewing. I know, I know but I loved all of them so much and you know nothing lasts at Fabric Mart long. I can't even link to them because they're no longer on the site.


Blackbird Fabrics:
I purchased two pieces from Blackbird Fabrics. The thing you should know about ordering from Blackbird Fabrics during a sale is that it takes a minute to get your fabric and that is clearly stated on their website. So if you're looking for a quick fix, think about it. This fabric arrived Saturday, December 8th when I ordered it on November 23rd. I'm sure crossing from one country to another is also a factor.

Lousy photo of the black denim but decent photo of the navy viscose linen noil

Black denim (out of stock)

This color is sold out but there are more viscose/linen noils on the site

I own a lot of denim but no mediumweight black denim. So I bought that and a viscose/linen noil. I purchased the viscose linen noil fabric because I was intrigued by the fabric combo. I know I don't own anything like it in the collection. It's an interesting piece that I will use once the weather warms up.

Honestly I get caught up in Blackbird's IG account. The way they showcase fabrics on social media really entices me and is why I keep going back for more! 


fabrics.com:
This purchase was a couple of days after Black Friday. Fabric.com had a bunch of Liverpool knits on sale for $6.99 a yard. Seriously $6.99 per yard. I bought three very unique prints.



Liverpool Double Knit Plaid Navy/Ivory Fabric - is no longer available



I know exactly what I want to make with these. One is destined to be used during my Winter Break, the other two have been shelved to wait their turn. I know fabric.com has taken a beating on the internet recently and I ordered from them holding my breathe. Thankfully, not only was my order correct but it came quickly. I actually was surprised at how fast it shipped. I guess that means give them a chance if you really want something!

Conclusion ~
37.5 yards of fabric have shown up in the last three weeks. Honestly, most of it is still laying on the cutting table waiting to be put away. That definitely was my last buy of the year...and hopefully I won't be purchasing anything before I head to Sew Camp too. At least that's my goal! *LOL* 

If you are interested in any of the fabrics, I've provided links to them. I can vouch that all of them are amazing.  Except, someone contacted me on Instagram regarding the floral cotton sateen from Fabric Mart. She had issues with the dyes running when she prewashed the fabric. Fabric Mart did graciously refund her money. However, I googled it and I'm going to try to set the dyes before I prewash the fabric. I will follow up here and let you know how it works out.

The last two shirts in The Border Print Series will be up shortly. I've been slowly working on them so they will be photographed on me next weekend.


...as always more later!






  

Do you sew fast?

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I know, I know you think I mean do you finish garments quickly!  But nope not talking about that.


I'm asking, "Do you run your sewing machine on the fastest setting?" See my sewing machine has a slow, medium and fast setting on it. I've set mine to sew almost as fast as my machine can go. I've sewn with it on this setting for the last 3-4 years.

Just recently I moved it back to the medium setting. I've started sewing slower to get more control over my projects as they go under the needle. I'd never thought about it before. I just wanted to sew as fast as my machine would go to get to the end of the project. However, when I was applying the lace on my Black Ponte Jacket, I had to slow down to be more accurate.

By slowing down I noticed that I gained so much more control over my project and my sewing machine. It made me wonder why was I speeding through garments before?  Didn't I realize the power of accuracy I was giving up?

So here's the "Question of the Day?" Is your machine set at it's fastest sewing speed?  If not, what setting is it set at? And if you sew really fast, are you accurate? Do you feel like you could be more accurate if you changed your sewing machine setting?

Me, I've changed the setting on my sewing machine. I've slowed down. I've gained some more control and I'm seeing better results in my finished garments.

Talk back to me...cause I'm really interested!

...as always more later!

2018 - The Year in Review

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This is the first in a series of posts regarding my sewing this year.  Having two major social media accounts: this blog and an IG account, they present an interesting contrast in what's "popular" on both sites.

First Instagram ~

Best 9 of 2018 from Instagram

I used a "Best of" App to determine what nine pictures had the most likes for 2018. These were the Top 9.

Interesting fact - a successful Instagram pic has 37 likes for every 1000 followers. So if you have 300 followers, a well-liked picture on IG has 111 likes. In my case a successful picture has 315 likes. In the grid, all of the pictures have over 500+ likes.

So thank you to everyone who follows my IG account and stops to like a picture and/or leave a comment.

Another thing making the rounds on IG is the "Favorite Colors used in Your IG Feed."  Mine is pictured below...


Which is a shock to me. Since in my mind I've sewn so much blue and denim and thought they would be featured more prominently. Guess not! LOL!

Onto what's been most popular on the blog...

The Blog ~
There's a difference between the two with a little overlap.  Probably because the blog is more interactive or at least it seems that way to me.  To determine what would be the most popular blog posts, I used a benchmark of over 3000 views...not comments. I also chose to feature the Top 9 blogs similar to the Top 9 IG posts.  

Anyway, the posts linked below all have more than 3000 views and they are posted with the most views first:

This is my fourth version of this Deer & Doe pattern and my second maxi. It also appears on my Best 9 on IG grid.


One of my few political posts this year. My goal this year in not posting political posts was NOT TO KNOW how many people supported the policies of this present administration.  But I just couldn't not say anything about this continuing atrocity. 

This is a Question of the Day post from February. It came about when I was on a sewing binge and felt like no matter how much I made, I just didn't sew enough.

Shirt number 6 from the April Shirt Month series.


This is the second shirtdress in the series. 


A post about my plans to sew from the collection. I'm not sure I was successful with this. I did, however, sew 8 garments that used 18 yards of fabric from deep within the shelves of the collection.

This is another Question of the Day which was posted in August. It occurred because I used only Indie Patterns that month to sew garments.

The kick-off post to April's Shirt Month.

An update on things in my world in early March.

As you can see the posts are from different parts of the year.  Some are garment posts, some are Question of the Day posts and there's even a political post in the mix. I also seemed to sew in series/collections this year which I believe was driven more by the fabric than the patterns/silhouettes.

The difference between what was popular on the two social medias is interesting. Probably because Instagram is based upon pictures and whether it grabs your attention. And my blog is based upon in-depth conversations, knowledge, pictures AND offering the reader the opportunity to comment without the comment needing to be based upon liking a garment.

As I said above, this is just the first in a series of posts about my sewing this year.  I have the Top 5 Hits and Misses coming up and a review of my most sewn item. Then there is the last day of the year post which I end every year with so that I know where I'm going in the new year.

I hope you will follow along on this retrospective. If retrospections aren't your thing, then wait for January when garment posts will resurface because I am sewing during the Holiday break. As I stated on Instagram, "I have a list that I may or may not sew from...a room full of fabric...a stash of patterns and thread in every color."

...as always more later!



 



Top Five Hits, Misses and Reflections of 2018

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I'm combining these topics this year. Probably because the year is coming to an end and I'm running out of time! *LOL* 


Let's start with the Top Five Hits...

1. The maxi Myosotis dresses were clear winners this year. 
I definitely wore the rayon maxi more because it was so comfortable to wear and worked in so many occasions. 


The velvet maxi just has a wow factor I haven't sewn in a long time! Still figuring out where I'm wearing this too but I love this dress.


2. Denim Jacket - McCalls 7481
This is an inspired by jacket and I explain the inspiration in the blog post. I made this in January and didn't really wear it until spring. It makes my list because I bought an inspiration to life. Though it's really the fabric that makes this jacket sing. Also my daughter photographed the heck out of this jacket!


3. The Black Ponte ~ McCalls 7481
This was the third version of McCalls 7481 and the one that received the least amount of love on both my blog and IG. But it's my fave of the three versions. It's also the one that will be the jump off for future jackets.



4. Shirt Month 
I made so many shirts at the beginning of the year that I titled April shirt month. I wore those shirts all winter and spring and then started wearing them again in the fall. Button down shirts have become my most favorite garment to sew & wear and have become "the dress pattern" of my casual wardrobe.



5. Dark Floral Katie
Y'all I taped this Sew Sew Def by MimiG pattern together! That in itself makes it legendary.  Then I went on to make four more of them and while I love them all, the first one makes my Top 5 list. This is the most comfortable tunic EVAH and caused me to love pockets. I wear it with a pair of knit cropped leggings and it's perfect on a hot summer day.


I really found my style this year. I made garments that I loved and wore alot. I experimented with garments and indie patterns and showcased ALOT of fabric! *LOL* Of course there were some makes that just weren't what I thought they would be. 

The Five Misses are next...

1. The Hurrying Spring Along Shirt
I hate that this shirt is on this list but I cut the sleeves on the cross grain...and of course they're tight and uncomfortable to wear. I keep thinking I need to figure out a way to salvage this shirt. Then I think donate it and hopefully someone without my fat bicep problem can enjoy it.

2. Cashmerette Black 'n White Striped Top
I liked the idea of this top but I wasn't comfortable wearing it. Maybe adding those ties wasn't such a great idea after all! This one will hit the donate bag also cause maybe someone else can find some love for it. The pants are staying in the collection though...cause those wore well this summer!

3/4. Beige Linen Pants & the Vogue 7448 OOP Top
These pants are made from my TNT pattern and made exactly like the black & white striped ones mentioned above.  However, they weren't as comfortable to wear.  So I'm donating them and working on another pair next summer.

While I got the top to fit, I really don't like how the shawl collar works. It still needs more work and I'm just not willing to put that work in. So this top will go in the donation pile too.

5. The waisted shirtdress fail
While this was a fail and posted on the blog as a fail, I did learn something from this process. That is a waisted shirtdress doesn't work on me, will never work on my body and that I should stop thinking I can make a pattern work. Some silhouettes don't work on my body type and I'm learning to just move on instead of wasting my precious sewing time.

Reflections on my sewing this year...
I made 46 garments this year - 4 pieces less than 2017. However, I think my garments in 2018 were much more involved sewing and included way more buttonholes than in any year previously!

My garment breakdown is ~
     - 16 shirts (more on this in another blog post)
     - 8 Tops
     - 4 Jackets
     - 4 Shirtdresses
     - 3 Dresses
     - 2 Pairs of Pants (from TNT pants pattern)
     - 2 Wrap Skirts
     - 2 dresses for the granddaughters
     - 2 Maxi dresses
     - 1 Cardigan
     - 1 Duster
     - 1 Vest

*  Another plan was to sew using more fabric from the collection. Well I'm not sure I achieved what I wanted to. If half my garments had been made from collection fabric, I would have called it successful.  There were 14 pieces from the collection (about a year old) and 8 pieces from the deep collection (4-10 years old). So close but not quite.

*  I am the Brand Ambassador for Elliott Berman Fabrics and made 5 garments using their fabric. I will be sewing garments from EB fabrics into 2019. I love EB fabrics and love working with Eugenia.

*  Eleven garments were made using Indie Patterns - Cashmerette, Deer & Doe and Sew Sew Def by Mimi G.

*  The rest were either TNT patterns (my shirt & pants pattern) or a combination of Vogue, Butterick, McCalls & Simplicity patterns.

Lastly fabric in/out totals ~
  • I bought 210.5 yards of fabric last year...dayum! 
  • I gave away 249.25 yards (Baltimore Destash, Tasha & Local High School)
  • I used 133.5 yards in garments 
  • That means that 382.75 yards left the collection 
  • My final total out is 172.25 yards

That's why I still feel like I'm drowning in fabric. My total yardage in was just too high. I hope to work on that in 2019.

My last post on my 2018 sewing will be about the garment I made the most of this year - my shirt collection. That's what's up next on the blog!


...as always more later!

2018 ~ The Year of the Shirt

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For 2018 I really wanted more shirts that button down the front.  I wanted a standard collar that meant undercollar and collar.  I wanted a buttoned cuff but I didn't necessarily need a menswear tower placket to accomplish that look.  

After I made my first series of successful shirts, I went on a fabric buying tear and bought enough fabric to make 30 more shirts. A little overboard, I know...but I kept seeing shirts in a wide variety of fabrics. I even wrote an inspiration post to share some of my ideas.

I ended up making 16 shirts this year...and all but four are solid colored. Making solid colored shirts will be a priority in 2019. Cause I love having all of these shirts in my wardrobe. LOVE! I made shirts almost every season of the year except summer. I didn't make any then because there were dresses and other things to sew. It's also probably the only time of the year that I don't wear them.  Though one of my friends said that they thought my Katies qualified as shirts. However, I think of them as tunics and/or dresses and didn't include them in my shirt count.

The last two shirts are finished just not photographed on me yet. These shirts will show up on the blog sooner or later. It rained alot here lately and then it was Christmas, so no photos. But since my daughters graced me with a new dressform for Christmas, here are some Sewing Cave photos of the lastest shirts.


To Recap the 16 ~
The first shirt I made in January was to celebrate my partnership with Elliott Berman Textiles ~


The next eight were featured in April and highlighted in this post Links to blog posts about each shirt are included ~


These were the next shirts~


After I sewed the sleeveless shirt in June, I took a break. It was October before I started sewing more of my basic button front shirt. The "Zooks Shirt" was my first fall make. Thank goodness for solid colored cardigans because I got this idea to turn a bunch of my border print fabrics into shirts. I called it The Border Print Series.




When I started making shirts in January, I wanted to make several shirts. I was thinking like 10...so I'm thrilled that I've made 16.

Another thing is that of the 16, one will be donated. The Hurrying Spring Along shirt has really tight arms. I love the idea of the shirt and it hurts that it no longer works for me.  Hopefully someone else will love it as much as I do.

This is the garment I made the most of in 2018. I've been wearing the shirts almost every week. They work well with a cardigan and jeans.  It's also the garment that fits best with my lifestyle. I also like the challenge of sewing shirts. I like how fabric and embellishments can change the flavor of the garment and will be making more in 2019.

This is the last retrospective post of my sewing for 2018. I am sewing and can't wait to share what I'm working on.

...as always more later!

Thank You!

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I wanted my last post of 2018 to say "Thank you!"


Thank you to everyone who has followed my sewing journeys this year.  Thank you to everyone who's been following those journeys for years, especially as I enter my 13th year of blogging.  Thank you to everyone who has left a comment, linked to a post, or suggested someone else follow me.

Thank you to all of the vendors that have willingly donated gift cards, discount codes, books and patterns this year and in previous years, for my readers.  Your willingness to work with me is truly appreciated.

Thank you to everyone who has met me this year.  At the Socialist Soiree, Sew Camp, at Baltimore Destash, for lunches (especially since I always forget to take selfies to document things), meet-ups and to hang out at the fabric store.  These times enrich my life and are treasured for our times together.

Thank you to my friends. The people I email and DM, pictures, questions and just to talk. I appreciate the flavor each and every one of you bring to my life.

Thank you to all the sewing bloggers who continue to blog. I know it seems as if blogging is being overlooked by other social media avenues, but I truly thank you for the time you take to document your garments progress. The time you take for pictures and putting it all together. I learn so much from all of you and recognize the time and effort you put into each blog post - so thank you!

A special thank you to Michelle at Sewn Magazine/Thatblackchic, for allowing me to write a column in Sewn Magazine. Truly, truly that means more to me than you probably realize.

Another special thank you to Caroline & Helen at Love to Sew Podcast. It was a special treat to speak with you in October. To be featured amongst sewists that are moving the sewing community forward and sharing their love of our artform made me so happy and so grateful.

Gillian, thank you for always asking even when I'm too busy, too tired or have my own sewing agenda...you always take a chance and ask! So thank you!

Lastly - I sewed a lot in 2018. Maybe not in quantity but in quality there was a lot made. I'm not sure I'm going to sew as much in 2019 since I have a few trips planned but when I'm home, I will be sewing and blogging about it.

May whatever being you believe in bless your 2019. May sewing continue to bring much joy, love and light into your life in 2019. 




...as always more later!  

My Sewjo has Fled

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I was eagerly anticipating my Holiday Break. I was going to spend quality time in the Sewing Cave, working on garments that I'd added to my 2019 Sewing List. I had the fabric on hand and was going to challenge myself to only use the notions that are stocked in the cave.

...and nothing.  Absolutely nothing. I tried to make a new top that while it looks amazing on my new dressform doesn't look as amazing on me.


Then I thought maybe I should lay off the easy projects. They never work out well for me anyway and turned to a jacket pattern that I've used successfully 3x before. I added a new element and bound the heck out of it. It's pretty inside...it is...but the sleeves don't work. ALL I need to do is make new sleeves...and it stopped me dead. I didn't have the wherewithall to make new sleeves.


There was no desire to make new sleeves or to make anything else, absolutely positively nothing else. So I bingewatched some TV/Netflix/Amazon Prime and no I didn't watch Bird Box. I read a few more chapters of Michelle Obama's book. I started crocheting the first of the blankets I promised the grandchildren and I slept...ALOT!

I made plans to go to the movies and then caught the cold my grandchildren had been sharing with everyone...so having the luxury...I slept for another two days. Got up yesterday to do some things for my job prior to going back to work on Monday.

So it's the weekend and I go back to work on Monday. I don't believe I'm going to sew anything this weekend either. I don't even feel like taking pictures of the four garments that are done and waiting to be added to the blog. I have NO desire to buy fabric so you KNOW it's bad! *LOL*  Oh and while all the other Christmas decorations have been removed and put away, I still have to denude the tree.

I'm sure I will go back to work and my sewing mojo will show up! *LOL* Because why wouldn't it when I can't use it! *sigh* Anyway, that's my update of my Holiday Break...a lot of rest, a lot of TV watching, some crocheting and reading but no sewing.

There are four things waiting to be photographed so there will be more garment posts sooner or later. 

ps - I read this great blog post on how to get your sewing mojo back and thought I would share. Mine hasn't come back yet but it was encouraging reading the post.

...as always more later!


So I'm Sewing...

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I knew when I went back to work that my sewjo would return and it did ~ like clockwork! It didn't come back right away but by the weekend, I knew what I wanted to sew. BTW, it wasn't anything on my list!

Diane at BlueDot Patterns issued a new jacket pattern and it was exactly what I was looking for in a topper for my winter wardrobe.


However, it only goes up to a size 18 so there is nothing plus size about this pattern.  Since it's a simple silhouette, I had no problem grading it up to fit me. It was the perfect pattern to use to get back into the sewing cave! My jacket is almost finished. So it will be up on the blog after the shirts from last year and a Pembroke that I somehow managed to finish while I was wandering around in the sewing desert.

Fabric Accountability ~
One of the things I said that I was going to do in 2019 to hold myself accountable is to post all of my fabric purchases to the blog. After a trip to Hobby Lobby my resolve not to purchase fabric in January got blown away...


From left to right there are three yards of every piece...
The first one is a Rifle Paper cotton, then a cotton navy with white polka dots, a cotton blend stripe with printed floral pops and finally a chambray with pearls attached to it.

Before that I'd purchased three yards of a viscose crepe from Emmaonesock...


...bought to make my own version of this Chico's shirt.




Then there was the four yards of printed denim purchased from Fabric Mart which has no plan but was too pretty to leave during a sale. It has been pretreated and placed in the collection with the rest of the denim waiting for inspiration to strike.


So a total of 19 yards have entered the Sewing Cave.  Not exactly the "no fabric buying" thread I had in my head! Hopefully these "blogs of shame" will help keep my buying in check...hopefully! *LOL*

It's been awhile since I've posted here so I wanted to update you on what's happening in my sewing cave! Next weekend is a three day weekend in the US, celebrating Martin Luther King Jrs Birthday. I should have my stuff together enough to take photos of my backlogged makes. That's what should be up on the blog next!

...as always later!



Sewing Goals for 2019

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As I said in my last post, I am sewing.  Just not taking pictures yet.  Though I plan to do that this weekend since I'm developing a backlog.

In the meantime, it's a holiday weekend here in the States, to celebrate the birth of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.  Also on the East Coast we're supposed to have some pretty wicked weather too, accumulating snow, ice & wind.  Perfect combo for staying in to sew especially since my sewing mojo is back and popping! *LOL*

Taken from Instagram at the end of 2018
My personal goal for 2019

While figuring out what three projects I wanted to work on this weekend (I'm home for four days so think three is a doable number) I came across this list I'd made during my holiday break. After re-reading it, I've decided I want to put it here...more for me than you...so I will have a record to go back and assess my progress at various times of the year.

Here are my "Ten Sewing Goals for 2019" ~

1. Sew Purposefully
Sew what I need for my wardrobe. Don't go off on flights of fancy, follow social media trends or go down rabbit holes.  Be true to my sewing lists because they're devised from my wardrobe needs and encourage me to take wonderful sewing journeys.

2. Sew at least 10 garments from deep stash.
These garments should be from fabric that's been in the collection for at least five years. There's plenty to choose from - use some of it!

3. Donate more fabric
Check with local high schools to see if they need donations. The donation doesn't need to be as large as my last one but make a donation or two anyway.

4. Buy fabric purposefully
I'm not going to say don't buy fabric, it never works. Instead I'm saying try not to buy because it's on sale, because it's cute or to get carried away when I'm in a group. I own a lot of fabric and I need to pull the curtains back and use some of the amazing fabric I already own. 

5. Use some new patterns
I love my TNT patterns. I love being able to just sew because all of the fit issues have been resolved. BUT I own ALOT of patterns (old and new) and I need to use more of them. Before I wouldn't use some of my older patterns because I wondered which sewists had them or could relate to them. I need to get past that because so many older patterns can be purchased online at either eBay, etsy or online sites.

6. Continue to track fabric in/out and blog new fabric purchases
This one has a two fold reason. One - last year by blogging in and out numbers I was acutely aware of what was coming in and going out instead of guesstimating. The reality was brutal. I need that slap in the face to control my consumption. Pictures of fabric purchases on the blog allow me to link to fabric - where & when it was purchased, how long it's been in the collection, etc. All information I need when I'm writing blog posts.

7. Search the fabric and notions collections first
I dream up garments from inspiration pieces, from street inspiration and from tv, magazine and movie garments. I usually make up a list of supplies needed after I decide what to make. Lately since I'm working in the garment district, I think let me run by Joyce Trimmings or Pacific Trimmings and get the supplies I need. But I have a really deep notions and button stash in the Sewing Cave.  I NEED to look there first. Only if I find nothing suitable should I be purchasing new notions.

8. Move/Reorg fabric
This is twofold ~ the first is to move fabric around more often because when I do I always find something I've forgotten. Something I've had and should be using.  Two ~ I need to reorganize so I have more space. I'm not using my space well because I tend to just pile things up.

9. Don't fall for the Big4 Pattern Sales
I already own a lot of Big4 patterns...some that just need slight adjustments to look like what's current. I need to be choosier when buying new patterns and see #5.

10. Create an Art to Wear piece
I was looking through some of my older blog posts and in some of them I found a couple of artier pieces. I went through a period where I could only wear "corporate clothing" to work but I can wear anything I want now. I liked sewing those pieces. It would be a good challenge to come up with something different than I've been sewing.

That's it. Those are my ten sewing goals for this year and I will probably do quarterly updates to check my progress. Like I said in the beginning of this post, I'm sewing this weekend so finished garment discussions soon.

...as always more later!




Blue Dot Patterns ~ Dover Jacket (Wearable Muslin)

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One of the garment types I really want to add to my fall/winter/early spring wardrobe is a loose fitting jacket. I want to wear them with the Pembroke turtleneck tunics I've made, as well as, my shirts and over jeans and leggings.


I saw the BlueDot Patterns - Dover Jacket and it really tickled my fancy.


However, there were a few challenges...
1. It's only graded up to a size 18 - no plus sizes at all!
2. It's a pdf ONLY pattern
3. The sleeves need to be lengthened

I hemmed and hawwed a few days before downloading the pattern because LOADS of pattern alterations PLUS taping the pattern together. But as I looked at the pattern drawings, I realized that a lot of the alterations would be very easy to make because it's a simple silhouette.


So my first challenge was to tape the pattern together. I managed to do that one evening after work while watching Bye Bye Birdie. Yes I LOVE corny old movie musicals! *LOL* It wasn't difficult to tape together because it doesn't have a lot of pages. The taped pattern easily fit on my sewing table.

Pattern Alterations ~
These are extensive. I altered almost all of the pattern pieces. So I traced the main body pieces and the alterations to them are listed below.

1. Front bodice bottom - added 1.5" to the piece from top to bottom by slicing it open and adding the extra space. This gave me an extra 3" in the front.

2. Back bottom piece - added 3" to the pattern. Sliced it from top to bottom and added the extra space.  This gives me an extra 6" to the back.

3. My finished hip measurement is 71" which will allow me to put a sweater or top under the jacket, as well as sit comfortably in the closed jacket.

4. I added a 1/2" to the front and back bodice pieces by slicing and spreading.


5. While the original finished bodice measurements fit, I wanted a little extra space for what I wore under the jacket.

6. Then I lowered the front and back pieces 2". If you look carefully at the picture of the jacket front - the seamline runs right across your bustline. This works if you're small busted but any amount of boobage and it will look a little wonky.


7. I checked where the seam would fall on my body and decided that I needed to lengthen it 2" for it to clear my bustline. That alteration was made to the front and back pieces.

8. The front facing piece had 2" added to match the jacket.

9. The sleeves were also altered. C'mon you know if I make them on regular patterns I would need to add to them here too. I added 1/2" to the front and back sleeve. 

10. For the next make I will need to add another 1/2" to both back and front sleeve piece. When sewn, these were still a little tight and pulled across the jacket front.

11. I also added length to the sleeves because the 3/4 length sleeve won't keep my arms warm. 

See extensive! I'm sure you're wondering why I didn't find a pattern in a size closer to my measurements. Honestly I don't know. I saw this, knew it was what I needed & wanted also that it would work with quite a bit of the suiting and jacket fabrics in the collection. Plus I was in the mood for the challenge of making it work.

Fabric Choice ~
I really wanted a denim jacket. I've got an entire section of denim fabric in all weights, colors and prints that I've amassed over the last couple of years. I didn't use as much denim as I thought I would last year, probably cause I went shirt crazy! Anyway, since I made so many alterations to the pattern, basically grading it up to a size 22-24, I wanted to try the pattern out first.  

If it worked well great! If it didn't, I would move on. I used a printed denim left over from making this wrap skirt last summer.  The first challenge: the fabric was shorter than I thought it was. I'd actually folded it in such a way that I couldn't see a huge piece was cut out ~ insert very loud groan here. I tried to move pattern pieces around so they would fit. The pattern tetris drove me back to working on one of the blankets I was crocheting for the grandchildren.  After a time out, I figured out how to get all the outer pieces cut out of the denim. 

Construction ~
This was easy to put together. I understand why Diane rated this a beginner to intermediate pattern. But me being me and no longer capable of just sewing a pattern as is, I made a few additions...

a. I didn't have enough of my fabric to cut facings or pockets.  So I omitted the pockets.

b. I cut facings from a blue/white gingham from my scrap pile.

d. After the sleeves were made, I realized you could see the white background of my printed denim.  So I cut blue/white gingham cuffs (15" x 3") to cover the sleeves undersides. Also to tie it to the facings on the inside.

e. I added 2 more buttons than the pattern calls for because I don't like flappy fronts.

f. To insure that everything in the inside of the jacket coordinated, I added a band of the blue & white gingham to the hemline.  I encased the hem for a bound look and I handstitched it down.


f. Last I topstitched close to the front edges and again at the edges of the facings like the pattern suggests. I used a triple stitch for the topstiching. 

(The color is off here but you can see the topstitching and basting lines)

To insure the topstitching was in the right place for the facing edges, I ran a line of basting stitches around the facing.

A few pictures of the finished jacket ~






Conclusion ~
I LOVE this pattern. I can see it in several different fabrications, even a ponte knit. I hope to make a couple more of these before the weather warms up. It's been especially cold this winter and I need ALL THE LAYERS!

I did add a lot of construction techniques to the jacket that are not included in the pattern. Some of it is because I wanted the insides of the jacket to look finished. Other techniques were done because I just like those sewing techniques better. All of these added more sewing time to a simple-to-sew jacket but it was worth the sewing journey...making it a very satisfying sew.

I would highly recommend purchasing this pattern if you're looking for a great casual jacket to add to your wardrobe. It has great bones and you can really have fun with design decisions for your garment.

...as always more later!







One, Two, Three Pembrokes all in a Row

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It's January and cold here in the Tri-State Area.  I hate being cold and I've wanted to sew my own turtleneck type sweater for awhile. Because of that, I was especially grateful when Jenny released the Pembroke Tunic for Cashmerette PatternsMy first one was from a wool knit that I've worn quite a bit since making it.  

During the MLK Holiday Weekend, I made three more of them. Grab a cup of your favorite beverage and settle in. I've included them all in this post instead of three separate posts, because I'm not writing three different ones! Due to that, this is a picture heavy post with quite a bit of commentary...



Pembroke Tunic One ~ The French Terry Version

I purchased this piece of french terry from one of those little dress shops that line the garment district side streets. It was owned by an older Orthodox Jewish gentlemen. They were closing the store and selling the excess pieces of fabric. I bought this piece and another one for $10. While it's not new, it has been in the collection for almost three years. 

When I was floundering during my holiday break, I thought that if I made a quick project it would jumpstart my sewing mojo. I got the top made but it didn't spur me on to sew and the insides weren't finished. So when I decided to make more of these, this one needed all of the finishing done to the insides of the top.

I am glad that I ended up with this new top. It's the most basic of all of my versions but a wonderful addition to the wardrobe.

Some pictures ~





Pembroke Tunic Two ~ A Paisley Felted Wool Jersey

This fabric is OLD. I bought about 7 yards of this from Fabric Mart back when felting wool jersey was H-U-G-E! My intent was to make a twinset using the felted piece as the cardigan and the unfelted piece as the top underneath. 

(felted on the left/unfelted on the right)

After putting the wool jersey through the felting process, it lost all of it's color and vibrancy. I was totally unprepared for this because it had never happened before. As you can see above, the difference between the felted and unfelted pieces was too great for my original idea so I put them on the shelf to wait for inspiration.

This piece counts as #deepstash since it's at least 12 years old! YES!!! Also since its felted, I'm sure it's going to be really warm. Due to the bulk of the fabric, this version has the cowl that stands furthest away from my neck but it will be okay when wearing.

Some pictures ~ 



Yes, I'm wearing gray sneakers. My sneaker collection has gotten quite deep. When I find a pair I like, I tend to buy more than one color. This pair is from The Avenue and is on sale now. I own them in black and gray and they have a velcro strap that I think is AMAZING! Though my daughter called them toddler sneakers! LOL! 


Worn with Butterick 6389 felted wool vest from 2017

This is the first of my 10 #deepstash garments for 2019. I'm thrilled with that!


Pembroke Tunic Three ~ Black & White Version

When scrounging through the 
fabric bins looking for a piece to make another Dover Jacket, I touched this piece and automatically thought Pembroke. My only challenge was that I didn't have enough fabric to make a tunic with long sleeves. Since it was black 'n white doubleknit, I knew it would work with black ponte and I have a small stash of it on hand. Cause you always need black ponte - ALWAYS!

This fabric wasn't tagged and I don't know how that happened! I have no idea where it came from but I'm thinking its NOT Fabric Mart, maybe Metro Textiles. There's only 2 yards of it and it's been in the collection for at least 2-3 years since I don't remember purchasing it recently. So not deep stash but definitely not new.

After laying the tunic pattern pieces out, I realized that I would be scrimping on the cowl. I decided to cut both the sleeves and the cowl out of the black ponte creating a colorblocked look. I plan on wearing it under my black hoodie to add another layer of warmth.


Some pictures ~




I'm happy to have three new layering pieces to add to my closet especially with the temperatures in the teens. I'm putting this pattern away for a minute. I've made four of them and I'm ready for a new sewing adventure now.

...as always more later!  

Why Support a Pattern Designer Who Doesn't Support You?

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There is a discussion happening in the Plus Size Community that started on Instagram after a blog post was published about why RTW and some indie pattern designers won't design for the plus size market.

I've waited to speak on this because I'm not surprised. This is just par for the course from some of these designers. I raised these very same objections when these indie designers first came on the scene years ago. They used the very same excuses and wording then as they have in this IG post. Nothing has changed and that speaks volumes to me. 

The only indie pattern company that changed at the time was Colette. Sarai worked with the Curvy Sewing Collective and other plus size sewists to develop patterns with a size range that almost all sewists could make. Everyone else stuck their heads in the sand.

Imma call some names out now ~ 

1. Sewaholic Patterns - Tasia at the time said she makes patterns for pear shaped women and she wasn't prepared to make plus size garments.

2. Grainline Studios - flat out ignored the cries.

3. Closet Case Patterns - Heather increased her range to a size 20 which is on the small side of plus size sewing.

4. Elisalex and the By Hand London team had a cult like following that told them they were amazing and raved about their patterns so why did they need to address the fat girls in the back.

5. Megan Nielsen said nothing that I remember at the time but thankfully she is issuing new patterns now with plus sizes and working on updating her pattern catalog.

6. The Big 4 pattern companies did extend their sizes and found some plus size designers to add to the offerings to give plus size sewists more opportunities to make trendy clothing. Check out the older Khaliah Ali Simplicity patterns on eBay, etsy and some of the vintage pattern sites. 

Alot of the newer indie pattern companies that do have a plus size range are companies that primarily make pdf patterns so I have no experience with them and can't speak to them.  However, they're getting a lot of love on IG right now.

I will say that I'm the older sewist in the room and in this discussion. I've been through this. I've had the angst/anger/hurt that alot of the plus size sewists are feeling right now and I've developed a few policies because of that.

1. I don't purchase patterns from the companies that don't design for my size. 
I vote with my dollars and being an older sewist with a high discretionary income that means the designer is losing out. It also means that my blog following doesn't see posts about these designers.

2. I don't beg. 
I said my piece years ago and now as Jenny, of Cashmerette Patterns, said this discussion is coming around again. If you don't want my money, I'm not begging you to take it. I'm ignoring you just like you're ignoring me. I'm finding indie pattern designers who want my money and giving it to them. I suggest other plus size sewists do the same.  

3. SUPPORT the Indie Pattern companies that cater to you!
Highlight the designers that want you to make their patterns. Share your finished garments on ALL social media channels so other plus size sewists can see them - not just on Instagram - but on the Curvy Sewing Collective, Facebook, blogs and PatternReview too.  Not every plus size sewist uses Instagram as their place to get sewing information.

4. Don't buy their books, follow them on Instagram or other forms of social media.
They don't care about you ~ why are you running behind them. Harsh I know but that's how I feel. I don't follow most of those "popular" indie designers on IG. They have nothing for me so why should I support them.  

I make sure to note EVERY indie pattern designer and fabric company I use on Instagram so that other sewists know about them too. Tag them in your posts! Expand your range of sewists you follow on Instagram.  Follow hashtags like #curvysewing #plussizesewing #cscmakes

My last point is going to be the most controversial but I had this thought over and over as I read the comments. We as plus size sewists need to learn to fit our bodies and learn what styles work for us. My sewing may appear boring on IG but my projects work.  They work because I've learned how to make the adjustments that I need so they fit and I wear the styles that make me most comfortable.

This means that we should invest in our fitting education - take classes both online and in person. Follow sewists who have some fitting knowledge. Buy books that can help take your sewing to the next level and these can be older sewing books too. Reach out and ask questions if you don't understand. Yes, sewing has different challenges when applied to plus size sewists but there are sewists out there who have knowledge to share and want to share it.

I'm sorry if this sounds like preaching but please know that not every question can't be answered in a Google Search.

Finally y'all I'm tired. Between the stuff that jumped off on Instagram over BIPOC and now this...along with all the crap that's going on in the US with our government shutdown...I just needed a minute. It's why I've taken this time to write this out and even in trying to be careful I'm sure I'm going to piss someone off which is not my intent.

For some other takes on this discussion, please read Andi's blog post, or Shannon's post. If you're on Instagram and haven't seen these sewists thoughts on this issue, please check out Megan, Emily/The Catwood, Whitney, and Emily

Okay that's it. Take my feelings with a grain of salt, ignore them, think on them, it's up to you. But remember its the love of the craft that binds us together ~ for better or worse.

...as always more later! 


A Circle Border Print Shirt

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Back in December, I wanted to use an older piece of fabric for my next shirt in The Border Print Series. I've been collecting border prints for years and knew there were some buried deep in the collection. I just needed to dig them out. After rummaging around in it I touched this piece...


...which was purchased in 2010. Yes, I'm taking it way back. At that time I blogged every fabric purchase, so here's the post regarding the border print. However, this fabric doesn't count towards my 2019 #deepstash garments. I made this in 2018, and I'm just sharing it to the blog.

Supply List ~
- 3 yards of cotton border print fabric from the collection
   (long time residence - 9 years)
- 5/8" coconut buttons from the notions stash 
   (from the days I worked at a button company)
- Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller


Construction ~
Since I was starting with my TNT pattern for this shirt, the challenge was how to use the border print since it only runs down one side of the fabric. It's the side pictured in the photo above. It was wide enough to cut out shirt fronts, the collar & undercollar and the back yoke. Originally I wanted it for cuffs too but didn't have enough. In the end I'm glad I didn't cut the cuffs from the border. I like that the larger circles just runs down the front of the shirt.

This is a lightweight shirting fabric. I bought it to make a summer dress and now I know why it sat in the collection. It's way too lightweight for a dress ~ even a summer dress ~ but it's perfect for a shirt. Especially if I wear it under a cardigan for the winter.
  • The construction was similar to every other shirt I've made, the only difference being the way it was cut out. 
  • It has a straight hemline, I didn't want a curved one for this version. 
  • I used the fold over center front piece because I didn't want to sew on a button band. 
  • When I went to fold the button band - the front band was flimsy even when folded 3x. So I added a strip of interfacing to the front to stabilize it. 
  • I don't usually do this because the fold of fabric typically is stable enough.
Everything is topstitched in white. I made samples using brown and white thread for the topstitching and the white sample won. Also took pictures of buttons for the front...the brown coconut or a simple 4-hole white one. I went with the brown coconut since I wasn't trying to make a statement with the buttons.  Those are the only construction points worth mentioning for this make. 

So some pictures of the shirt in action ~





I made this cardigan in November 2012. When I was doing the great closet clean-out after changing jobs, I just couldn't let this go. There was so much work associated with it and I loved the pleather accents. I've worn it occasionally when hanging out with friends because it's a great throw on when headed out to dinner. I thought of it when I needed a cardigan to go over this shirt. This is how I will be wearing it to work now...



Conclusion ~
This is the next to last shirt in "The Border Print" series AND it's the 15th shirt I made in 2018. For the last shirt in the series, I had another border print fabric in mind. However, the pattern tetris wasn't working with the fabric. Sometimes what I see in my mind doesn't work well with the actual fabric so I put it back on the shelf. However, I really wanted one more shirt in the series so I pulled a rather conservative shirting purchased from Fabric Mart after the last Sew Camp.

The last shirt in the "Border Print Series" will show up in February. I know this seems to be stretching them out but blogging all of my makes goes with my 2019 goals. Plus, I like having them here on my blog. The next post is my end of the month round-up.

...as always more later!





January 2019 Round Up

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Being true to my 2019 goals, this is the first end of month recap for the year. This month's recap will not only track my fabric in & out progress, garments sewn, where I'm going with my sewing next month, but also a discussion of some of the issues going on in the sewing community.

Let's start with garments made first ~
My sewing mojo did go missing during my Christmas holiday break which also encompassed the beginning of this month. When it came roaring back, I did get quite a bit accomplished but that's mostly due to a three-day holiday weekend.

I made three Cashmerette Pembrooke Tunics ~


A Dover Jacket ~


...and I cut out two more versions of the Dover Jacket, one version of my TNT shirt pattern with a tie top and a Simplicity 8265 vest. I'm working on these pieces over the next couple of weeks. Of course they will make an appearance on the blog during the month of February.

Fabric In & Out Totals ~
I'm adding some more details to my fabric in and out totals this year. This is so I can assess how much of my fabric collection I'm actually using. Last year I noticed, I tended to sew the new fabric - rarely venturing onto the walls. I know some of this was due to the fact that there's so much fabric and I have to move things around to get to the walls. I've changed some of that so the walls are more accessible.  Also, I'm making a greater effort to open the curtains on the walls more often.

One other note before I launch into in and out totals. This year I have a niece and grandson graduating from high school, so a good part of my sewing (especially this spring) will be about garments for those events. Some fabric purchases this month were made because the special event fabrics were inexpensive and I need a lot of yardage for myself and the granddaughters. My last 17 yards from Fabric Mart fits into this category.

Okay totals ~
Fabric In:  39 yards in 
These are purchases from EOS, Fabric Mart, Hobby Lobby & Workroom Social. This is high for the month of January. I'm usually much better at NOT purchasing fabric in January - so I will need to watch these numbers going forward.

Fabric Out: 28 yards out
This equals six finished garments (2 of which have yet to be blogged) and four garments cut out and waiting to be sewn. 

This is how I will be tagging fabric out from now on:
#deepstash - been in the collection more than 8 years
new - been in the stash less than 6 months 
collection - 1 to 7 years in the collection

Of the yardage out this month, 1 garment is from deep stash, 5 garments are from the collection (2-5 yards old), 3 garments are from brand new fabric (less than 6 months old), and the final garment is from scrap fabric that was previously used in another piece.

While both these totals are high, I've already put more into the collection than taken out - 11 yards more to be exact. I will need to work on this in the coming months!

Goings on in the Sewing Community ~
I touched on this in my post "Why Support a Pattern Designer Who Doesn't Support You?" which was based upon the conversation about indie designers including larger sizes in their patterns. Since those conversations started, there's been a lot of movement by indie designers to be more size inclusive. Follow the discussion on The Curvy Sewing Collective and several of the bloggers mentioned in that post.

From those conversations some new hashtags evolved to follow on Instagram:  #sewmysize #normalizeyoursize #sewinclusive and quite a few of my fellow sewists posted their measurements to IG. We did it to show that we're all normal sized human beings and that our measurements are just tools to get a great fit in our garments.  

Here's the picture I posted to IG with my measurements:


There was some conversation about taking your measurements standing vs. seated. I noted the measurements listed on my photo are my seated measurements. I lose 1-2" in my abdomen and hips when I stand up. Oh and its important to note that I've gained back 25 of the 35 pounds I lost 4 years ago.

I will also admit that in the summer under my dresses and skirts I wear thigh length spanx. Some for tummy control but most for the suppression of my thighs and to cover them so they don't rub together when I walk. Several of my jeans have tummy support/control and I also wear spanx leggings at times.

These are my personal preferences and I'm being transparent about them though I do get the feeling people are amazed at my hip size. Ummmm that's styling choices and knowing where to put what designs to accent my body's features...and as my sister says I know how to pose! *LOL*

Finally, if you're a plus size sewist looking to support other indie pattern makers who design for your size, Megan has listed them all in this blog post. I encourage you to buy from them...I know I will!

Eulogy ~
Lastly another sewing great has passed away. Cynthia Guffey died last week of throat cancer. I wrote a blog post on the effect she had on my sewing back in 2006. She has continued to influence it to this day. For her admonishment to slow down and enjoy the process, to how I measure my body, even to the amount of piping I use and how I apply it. 


I took every class she had at sewing expos back when I went as often as I could. She, like Nancy Zieman, greatly influenced the sewist I am today. She will be missed. May she rest in peace!

Wow! That was a lot happening in January! 

...as always more later!







Stripes can be border prints too!

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Well at least in the Fabric Mart universe they can be!


I bought this fabric from FM after #carriagecornersewcamp last March. It wasn't on the site when we were there but it caught the eagle eye of Nakisha from Dressmaking Debacles at the time and she let us know when it appeared on the site. She made an amazing shirt from it.  I bought some too but it sat during the summer while I made other things.

For some reason I didn't take a picture of this fabric before I washed or cut it apart to make my shirt. Though Nakisha's version is a true representation of how the fabric is made and shows the stripes much better than my pics do.  As I said my fabric was cut apart to work with the border print. This is the most conservative version of my Border Print shirts.

Supply List ~
3 yards of cotton shirting from Fabric Mart
12 2-hole 1/2" pink buttons from Pacific Trimmings
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller


Notes on Construction ~
  • There are no real construction changes to this shirt. 
  • I used the straight hem version of my TNT pattern.
  • Cutting apart the border and using it to cut out the buttonbands, cuffs, collar and collarband is what makes this shirt work.
  • I added a strip of the pink stripes to carry the border print throughout the garment since I didn't have enough fabric to cut the cuffs out of it.

I included a few construction photos so you could see the stripes and how the border print was used. Especially since the stripes seem to be washed out in my final pictures. I know I probably should have retaken them but honestly this was garment number six that I'd photographed and at that point I was done. I'm sure y'all will get the gist of my shirt.


A Few Pictures ~



(This was the last garment of six I photographed 
and I was getting really silly by this time)


Conclusion ~
This was a unique piece of shirting and the striped border was very small compared to the rest of the fabric. However, there was enough to add contrast to the shirt, so that's how I used it. This is the last shirt in "The Border Print Series" and I'm glad I concluded it by using a more classic-type shirt fabric. 

It was shirt Number 16 for 2018 and my last garment for the year. This also catches me up on blogging about last years garments.  I have a few remaining pieces from January that will also show up in February.


...as always more later!





Sewing while black, plus size and over 50

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There have been quite a few conversations in Instagram land and social media regarding inclusivity in our sewing community.  Conversations regarding POC (People of Color), Plus size sewists and #sewover50. For many sewists, they hit one maybe two of these categories.  I, however, find myself in the unenviable position of falling into all three categories.  

I am a Black American, who is 60 years old, and plus size.  Personally I don't see any of these as negatives.  They are just my life story.  However, when mixed all together I'm basically invisible to the sewing advertisers, retailers and pattern companies.  This is really interesting because right now I have the largest disposable income that I've ever had during my entire sewing career which has spanned the last 49 years of my life and very few companies target me.

So yet again I'm writing another post on my invisibility in the sewing world. *sigh*  However, the ultimate post on sewing over 50 was written by Susan Young where she's listed out by pattern company, the representation of older sewists pictured either on the pattern envelope or website. The initial list was very brief.  The revised list is better but its still not that great.  Oh to be young, white and thin in the sewing world! Girl you've got it going on!  Let's not add male sewists into the mix because they are probably the only group more discriminated against than fat, old, black women.

All this to say that I am participating in the #So50Visible challenge.


The list of patterns was even smaller as an older, plus size, sewist. I'm not including POC on that list because I just don't want do the legwork on it. However, here is where I need to give a huge shout out to Cashmerette Patterns. Jenny is definitely hitting all of the boxes and showing her patterns are wearable dispite your age, girth, or color. She's just happy to be providing patterns for sewists - any female sewist.  Sorry guys! 

I also need to note here that her patterns are available in paper and pdf patterns. I know there is a section of sewists out there who love pdf patterns. I am not one of them. So the fact that I'm given the choice without being made to feel bad for "not moving with the times" also earns Jenny high marks from me!

For the #So50Visible challenge, you can post a new or previously made garment. From Jenny's line I've made two versions of her Rivermont top.  Here is the picture from Jenny's website ~


This is my first Rivermont Top made in November 2017 ~


I made my second Rivermont top in December 2019 ~


I also made the Rivermont Dress in November 2017 ~


While the dress is NOT my favorite, I do love both tops! And after looking at these pics, I realize I need to try that dress pattern again. Anyway, all of this is to say that patternmakers can be more inclusive in their advertising. You can show POC, older and plus size sewists on your website and pattern covers - look at Jenny's site, she does it easily and WELL!  You just need to put in the effort.  Step out of your comfort zone and represent the entire amazingly, wonderful, beautiful sewing community as it is.

...as always more later!


The Dover Jacket in Flocked Glen Plaid

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I knew right after I'd finished my first Dover Jacket that I would be adding more of them to my wardrobe. It's exactly the type of topper that I need and want as a layering piece. All I had to do was figure out what the next fabric should be. I settled on a flocked glen plaid suiting and an embroidered denim. One piece is deep stash and the other is new to the collection. 

At first I was going to put both jackets in the same post but there is so much detail to each one they deserved separate blog posts. 


Flocked Glen Plaid Version ~


This version was inspired by a picture I saw on Marcy Tilton's site. Yes, I get her emails. Yes, I cruise her site 2-3 times a week. No, I rarely buy anything but her fabric selections are so inspiring. The picture above inspired me to look in my fabric collection, because I KNEW I had a flocked glen plaid on the shelves. I know Marcy's picture is about denims (and boy do I want the one on the far right!) but it did strike a memory.

Upon finding the fabric on the shelves, I was thrilled to realize it's the right weight to make the Dover Jacket. Since it's such a distinctive fabric, I knew it would make an interesting topper. A note...when choosing fabric for this jacket...make sure it's a fabric that gathers easily since the gathering is an integral part of the design.

Supply List ~
- 3 yards flocked glen plaid from deep stash
- (3) 1.25" buttons from notions collection
- leather binding from the notions collection
- Black fusible interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

Pattern Alterations ~
This is the only additional alteration I did to the pattern for future makes ~
  1. I added 1/2" to the front and back of each sleeve from the shoulder curve down. 
  2. This enlarged the hemline considerably. 
  3. At 4.5" from the hemline, I sewed on an incline decreasing the hemline by 1.5" on each side.
  4. I also lengthened the sleeve by one inch.
  5. This allowed made sleeve hems circumference smaller and stopped my very small wrists from looking like they were floating in a too big sleeve.
Construction ~
Because the fabric is very busy, I added some accents to make the design work. I chose a very large button from the collection to add to the jacket front. I have no idea how long I've had these buttons or where they came from in the garment district. Just know that my button collection is as extensive as my fabric collection.


Due to the size of the buttons, my automatic buttonholer wouldn't make buttonholes. Honestly, I haven't made a 3-step buttonhole in about 20 years. I went to my copy of the Vogue Sewing Book to figure out how to make them again.



A few samples later and I had buttonholes large enough for my buttons. Though I'm glad I only had to make three of them.

I also added some leather binding leftover from other projects to the front edge of the jacket. That wasn't planned. I was looking for some buttons and found the leather binding in a plastic bag with the buttons I chose. I'd probably planned on using them together for another project that didn't happen. They were, however, perfect for this one.

Lastly, I omitted the front pockets from this version too. After wearing the original jacket, I didn't miss the pockets so left them off.

Some Pictures ~  






Conclusion ~
I'm glad that I used this fabric from the collection to make my second version. While it's not a heavy fabric it will be a good layer over a cashmere top for the coldest days or a cotton jersey turtleneck. It's casual enough for the office but funky enough to satisfy my creative needs.

This is the second jacket from the Dover Pattern.  My final version is coming soon!

...as always more later!





McCalls 7481 ~ An Embroidered Denim Vest Hack

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I decided that I wanted a couple of casual unlined jackets to wear this winter. I started with the ponte and lace version using McCalls 7481 and moved onto the Dover Jackets. I wanted to make another M7481 because I like the silhouette of this pattern and it's very hackable. 

So for this hack I've added the inseam pockets to the front. In my mind I call them the Rachel Comey pockets which makes it reminiscent of this Jacquard & Ponte Jacket. The thing that challenged me about that jacket was it didn't close and it fit closer in my upper body and looser in the bottom. That's because I basically used the dress pattern for my topper pattern.

For this version I added the pockets to the front which is easy because this pattern already has separate pattern pieces for the top and bottom.  So here is a picture of the completed garment...


This started as a jacket but now it's a vest. I got the jacket cut out and started to assemble it - went to add the sleeves and no bueno. The suckers just don't fit my arms...and I have no idea why. I measured them before cutting them out but they're just not working in this fabric.

At first I thought I would recut them from the fabric scraps and even came up with a plan to do so...but I kept dragging my feet. That's a sure sign this garment was done. So I finished it up and moved on. I'm wearing it above with one of the white shirts I made last spring.

Listed below is the supply list and techniques I added to make the inside as pretty as the outside.  

Supply List ~
- Embroidered Denim purchased from Metro Textiles (from the collection)
- White Piping from Daytona Trimmings
- White bias binding from the collection
- Black fusible interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
- (3) 1" white buttons from the notions collection

Construction Techniques ~
I chose a very busy fabric so there were a few techniques added to it to make it work...


1. I hong kong finished the side seams, the facings and the hem.
2. The facings were cut from leftover regular denim scraps to make the fronts less bulky.
3. I added white piping to the front to give the eye a place to land and enclose the design.
4. The back was cut into three sections to break up the pattern a little but it's only noticeable at the first seam.
5. After I omitted the sleeves, I used a smaller white bias binding to bind the armholes.
6.  I decided to only add two buttons at the top because after all that work, the vest barely closes around my hips. The two top buttons allow me to close the vest without straining it over my bottom.
7.  Because of the dense embroidery design on the denim, I had to sew over the buttonholes twice to make them visible. The stitching was getting lost in the embroidery.

Otherwise, y'all this is a really simple silhouette that I changed the pockets on and then bound the heck out of the interior.


My other concern is that even though everything was pretreated, you know denim can still sweat dye in the wash. So will all my pretty white bias binding be a muddy blue after a wash? Who knows...and of course I thought of that as I pressed the last of the bias binding into place.  I think I just got excited about how great the bias binding looked on the insides without thinking about the care of the jacket until it was done.

A Few Pictures ~





Conclusion ~
This was the second garment I started during the Winter Holiday sewing bust. I did like taking my time and adding in the extra elements. As each technique was added to the vest, I got happier and happier because I'm no longer sewing to have something to wear. I'm now sewing because I like creating beautiful clothing...but it did take me until last week to make the final changes, finish it and get it ready to be worn.

It's a great vest. I love it paired with the white shirt or when worn with one of my cashmere turtlenecks on a cold winter day (not these minus days we've experienced lately). While the jacket idea didn't work out, the vest has more than surpassed my original idea. I really love this piece. It has an art teacher chic vibe. I'm thrilled I worked through the garment's challenges to add it to my wardrobe! 


...as always more later!


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